Good Morning all,
I'm in the middle of a debate, more like "going to school," over how to
convert to manual brakes.
The issue centers around a near catastrophic failure of the brake system
which, fortunately, happened in my garage, as opposed to on the road: the
rear brake line sprung a leak at the driver's side wheel cylinder. What I'd
like to end up with is as close to a tandem brake system as possible. Not
too hard to do, except the Girling brake booster is in the way.
So, first question: What size master cylinder bore will stop the car without
breaking the driver;'s leg in the process? I go back a long way; when I was
young most cars didn't have power brakes, and they stopped with reasonable
effort. Today that doesn't seem to be the case.
Any thoughts? suggestions? Steve? Tom? Larry? Anyone?
Tom
' 67 Mark 2, now moving under its own power.
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