I just read Theos post but it sounds to me that you put the clutch plate in
backwards. Its marked FLYWHEEL SIDE but it is easy to get turned around. It
wont engage completely, thus the clutch linkage travel wont bottom out and it
wont allow you to shift gears with the engine running. As Theo said, RandR is
much faster the second time.
TtT
--- On Fri, 7/30/10, Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com> wrote:
From: Smit, Theo <Theo.Smit@dynastream.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
To: "Would U. Believe" <mcdangerous@verizon.net>, "tigers@autox.team.net"
<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, July 30, 2010, 9:21 AM
If you had 3/4 inch of play between the pushrod end and the release lever
when
the slave cylinder's piston is pushed all the way into its bore, then you
should get a longer pushrod. For the purpose of testing, you can easily make
one from a 3/8" or larger diameter bolt - just cut it to length and grind the
ends roughly spherical. The hydraulic setup will self-adjust within a
reasonably large limit so you don't need to have the length of the rod
exactly
right, but if the rod is way too short then you run the risk of popping the
piston out of the slave cylinder bore when you press the pedal to the floor.
You have bled the master cylinder at the pipe connection, right?
If the clutch release lever is getting full travel and the transmission still
doesn't shift properly, then there is something wrong with the way that the
clutch assembly is put together. The clutch disc could be bent, the disc
might
be incompatible with the diaphragm clutch (too thick or too much marcel
squish) or something strange with the release bearing.
Engine removal and replacement goes much faster the second time. ;)
Good luck,
Theo
> HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running. I can only
> get
> it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the gears
> clash.
> This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
> Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think
> the
> issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch
> fork
> far enough to disengage. Keep in mind that the slave is the same one
> used
> on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork
> (lever)
> are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been
> adjusted
> in any way. I have not had time to get under the car again to check
> now,
> but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end
> of
> the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.
> So
> the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can
> or
> should make? If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
> pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?
>
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