David, and Tigers (Alpines too, if this gets through to them - Maybe
David can forward it)
In this back-and-forth about fasteners, it awoke my memory.
I purchased some stainless small screw, nuts, washers and split lock
washers. I seem to recall 10-40, but check your existing holes.
By careful filing, I made the head into a square, thin shape and
thickness, that fit the rear most stainless slot access hole. Since
these side pieces have an enlarged hole in the track back-side to
install the original studs, I could insert the squared heads and then
slide it into position where the fender/door holes are. I did this for
every position that was accessible from the rear.
The stainless nuts and washers were tightened snugly (not hard) with a
small wrench or socket, from inside the car or trunk.
Works great. Strips won't fall off in jarring over a rough road. Rust
doesn't happen. That doesn't mean the original sheet metal won't rust,
but painting the hole before installation can help.
Steve
David T Johnson wrote:
> When I will put my side molding back on, I do what an old
> CAT tip recommended. Go down to the hardware store and buy
> small stainless machine screws whose head fits in the
> molding lot.
>
> Put the molding in place and slide the screws until you
> get to their hole. I added nuts with split ring washers and
> washers. I finger tightened verything until I was happy.
> Once happy I conched the nutts but not so hard to
> hurt the paint.
>
> You can get to all the nuts from inside the car. The only
> one that was a problem was the small strip on the front
> fender. I used a SS type fasteners I got at a VW dealer.
>
> New time I may use nylon machine screws. Their
> nuts look like they won't looser.
>
> Dave
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