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Re: [Tigers] Hard Top Screw Question

To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Hard Top Screw Question
From: Steve Sage <fastsage@cox.net>
Date: Tue, 07 Apr 2009 22:57:43 -0700
Steve Sage wrote:
> Ron:
> That is a great Tiger fastener list in Tigers United but I just looked 
> and unfortunately it covers everything except the hard top. If you can 
> figure what size you used, I would appreciate it.  


> Here's the flipper window trim workup. Don't read it unless you really 
> want to because I go into maybe way too much detail. The trim diagram 
> below will probably not be to proportion when it hits the list, but 
> you'll get the idea of the triangle shape.
>                                        B1
>
>                            X    X   X
>                   xX                  x
> B            X                        x
>        X                               x
>    X                                   x
> X       X    X      X      X     X
>
> A                                       A1
>
>
> First off, out of the bag from the supplier, the triangle rubber trim 
> piece is too big. You have to cut some of it out. I made the cut on 
> both windows at A1 above, in that lower front corner. I cut completely 
> through the trim at that point. Then cut a little bit from the 
> veritcal length going from B1 down to A1, but before you do, be very 
> careful and only cut a little at a time, then press it on the window 
> frame. If you cut too much, you can't put it back together, so 
> carefully figure ahead of time how much you want to cut. That piece 
> going from B1 down to A1 seems to be the main culprit. It's too long. 
> The bottom piece (from A to A1) and top piece (from B up to B1) fit 
> pretty closely. They are both close to the correct length. Depending 
> on how concours you want to be, you could completely cut out the B1 to 
> A1 piece. I may do that as I had the frames chromed and the B1 to A1 
> rubber covers half of that pretty chrome. I don't see a functional 
> reason for using that piece but I think the factory seal did use it. 
> Here's trick #1 for making a good seal from the rubber trim to the 
> flipper windows when you close them. In the back lower corner (A on 
> the diagram) be sure to press the trim into that corner as flush as 
> you can. Jam it back there. If you don't, the window will not seal at 
> that point. Now pay attention to the "flange" of the rubber trim that 
> sits on the hartop side rails. The idea of this part of the trim, 
> which will be apparent when you look down at it, is so when you close 
> the flipper window it will make contact with it and make a seal when 
> closed. That part of the seal does not usually make a straight line 
> from front to back. On my pieces, it was very "wavy". So, very 
> carefully (don't slip and scratch the paint), stretch the rubber 
> outward toward the open flipper window, wherever it's not in a 
> straight line from front to back. . I used needle nose pliers and put 
> a cloth underneath then to lessen the chance of scratching the paint. 
> I did slip a couple of times and the cloth saved me. After stretching 
> it out at the three or four needed points, and stretching it out a few 
> times, the rubber stays stretched out and now makes a good seal when 
> closing the window. I didn't have to do much stretching on the upper 
> piece (B in the diagram) but you may have to as each trim piece will 
> be a little different.

That's a lot of wording for what is actually a fairly simple job, so let 
me know if you have any questions.

Steve Sage






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