Tom & Mark,
"Back-in-the-day", as they now say, my 1954 Jaguar XK120M had finally
wore down the Dunlop treads after 10K miles. I had them re-capped with
the original "*Dunlop Racing*" block tread. They had a tire lathe they
used to round the tire, as most retreads (and some new tires) were not
actually round!
When I left, and got on the freeway, I heard sirens behind me. Well,
either I'm going to get a ticket again (cops hated sports cars) or there
is a fire ahead. To my surprise the emergency vehicles did not come by,
but appeared to be going at freeway speed. I found out that as I slowed
down to exit, the sirens faded into the distance!
Well, I found out that the "sirens" were my "block racing treads" tires
screaming on the road! :-D (lol)
Lasted a lot longer than the original "natural rubber" tire tread, and
rode smoothly if you ignore the sirens!
While I do not recommend retreads, many new tires aren't round, so it is
worthwhile to make them "round" with a lathe. The miles you lose to
tread removal are nothing compared to an unbalance able wheel wear. My
"Michelin X" radials (later) were really good.
Steve
___
Steve Laifman
Editor - TigersUnited.com
Thomas Witt wrote:
> Mark,
> <--- snip --->
>
> Flat spots can be hard to see, but sure can be felt. I bought a set of
> wheels/tires at Pick A Part recently for my Turbo Pinto. Seemed like a good
> deal until I drove on the tires. Running the pressure low and trying to
> squeeze the flat spot out didn't work, nor did over inflating them. Being
> cheap like I am, I jacked the back of my car and with the wheel spinning
> heald my power planner to it. Well..., it made for a lot of thin rubber
> debris, but I still had the "thwamp."
>
> As a side note to "lead weights:" I remember years ago when horizontal
> bubble levels were used for balancing that the guy would move the tire
> around the rim BEFORE mounting to minimize the amount of weights needed.
> With most modern balances that hold the tire vertical I doubt they do it
> now.
> Tom
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