What I would try to figure out is, is it the drum or is there something
wrong with the bearings on the inside of the diff. or the outside wheel
bearing.
To check this I would carefully chock all wheels and then start the engine,
and in first gear slowly let the clutch out enough to see if the left wheel
will start to rotate and without any noise. This of course is assuming you
don't have posi. If it rotates smoothly you know that the problem is in the
brake drum area. The info that Bill L. gave you might work well just be
careful not to hit the edge of the drum they crack very easy. A dead blow
hammer would work well here.
This is why it is important to use a little anti-seize on the threads of
your adjuster when assembling the brakes. When you get it all apart and
clean the adjuster be sure to apply some anti-seize to the threads and the
steel wedge so it will work for years to come.
Well that's my two cents worth.
Jerry Christopherson
9473187
TAC682
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces+jcmc2006=suddenlink.net@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces+jcmc2006=suddenlink.net@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
AAAGLASSS@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 8:35 PM
To: tigers@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: [Tigers] Subject: Re: Left rear wheel locked up
Ok boys and girls, the left rear wheel is still locked. The e-break is off.
Any hints or tips on this? The R-rear wheel spins and the drive shaft
spins.
Thanks
One more time. Drove car into garage parked it. Wasn't wet when parked.
Loosened bleeder took off break line, little dribble. Took off wheel, took
out
Phillips screw. Drum moves a bit but won't come off feels like brakes are
pushing against drum. Adjuster won't budge with 1/4 inch wrench. Any Ideas?
Thanks
again.
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