As I continue to study this subject (a cam change with non-roller hydraulic
lifters is coming soon) a number of things seem to contradict themselves.
1A. Sythetics shouldn't be used for break in because they lubricate too well
and don't allow for a proper wear pattern.
1B. Modern Dyno oil doesn't protect well enough and will scuff (wear) the
cam and lifter.
What then do the recommended cam break in "additives" do, --- make Dyno oil
like synthetic oil it seems???
2A. A special cam & lifter lubricating paste should be used to coat the cam.
2B. One should prime the oil system so the oil is immediately available.
Priming the oil runs the risk of washing off (or diluting) the lubricating
paste. Thus, for the first few revolutions what is more important, getting
the oil there ASAP or retaining the lubricating paste (undiluted) as long as
possible (until the paste itself wears off). I realize we are talking mere
seconds here, but apparently it is enough to kill the cam if the right
crossover point of the two lubricants isn't correct.
Now I'm sure there is some idiot out there who builds a new engine with no
(or light) lubrication, the oil pump is unprimed (as well as the filter) and
sure the cam goes flat. I just get confounded when the "YOU HAVE TO'S" start
to contradict themselves and I start to wonder if doing all the right things
is the wrong thing!
So, here's my plan (feel free to correct me if I'm in error anywhere):
1. Coat the cam with Clevite "Cam Guard" (I happen to have a full bottle on
hand) though it doesn't feel very slippery (?).
2. Use Shell Rotella T oil.
3. Add a can of cam break in additive.
4. Prime the oil pump and filter until I just barely notice oil pressure.
5. Immediately start engine (I hope) and run at 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes.
6. Use special valve covers with openings cut in the top to observe that the
pushrods are rotating (thus assuming the lifters are also).
7. I'm initially using a set of stock, used valve springs (comparatively low
pressure - thus less impact on the cam and lifters) because (I'm cheap) the
new cam is only slightly more lift (from .373-.400 to .420-.420) and the
duration increase is a very gentle ramp. To give myself away here it is a
SSI (PAW) clone of the Edelbrock Performer cam for a 318 Mopar... a close
relative to the Sunbeam Family :-). Pardon my being slightly off the brand
here, but this is a "universal" issue.
Tom
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