John,
I hope, John, you got a kiss when someone sold you the wrong sender, :-*
before. The ORIGINAL Ford and Edelbrock F4B had the 5/8-18 straight
sender threads. These are NOT the threads that either Ford, or
Edelbrock use for their regular production, but made to match English
practice, and instruments.
If you bought a used F4B, or iron Ford manifold, it has the US standard
tapered pipe thread. Putting a straight sender into that tapered thread
will ruin both of them. If you were "lucky", the doer might have
"lubricated" it with a sealer and thread distortion. Now neither
manifold or sender thread are any good.
Unfortunately, these threads are so close "somewhere" in the diameter
and pitch, between straight and tapered threads they can be jammed
together, and probably leak.
Your manifold threads are now unusable, as is the damaged original
sender. If you had used a US sender, your measurement would be off,
unless you used a US gauge.
Now you know just how deep you are. But never fear, and do not stick
that new sender anywhere near the damaged manifold threads.
Unfortunately, the threads can not be cut into the manifold pipe thread,
UNLESS you have the aluminum manifold (do NOT use an adapter). You must
taper ream the existing thread, and fill by heliarc the entire hole from
the bottom - up until you fill the hole. Finish off top of "boss" by
removing excess filler and flatten top to rounded edges.
Now, you drill out the new filler with the proper drill for the straight
thread, and all will be as Lucas planned. There is another method that
requires a larger drill out of the pipe thread to match a "thread sert"
adapter, which has a large OD thread, and the original 5/8 -18 inner
thread. This adapter is meant to fit flush with the manifold (no top
wrench flats, but an installer tool to tighten it flush, These inserts
come with a kit of correct pilot hole drill, tap for new hole, and
installer for thread sert. You do not have to buy all sizes, just the
5/8-18. The sender now fits the new steel insert hole.
Please go to JCWhitney to protect aluminum parts from corrosion when
installed in steel components of coolant system.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/showCustom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2000879/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2000879/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=corrsion
or search
http://www.jcwhitney.com/ for "radiator corrosion inhibitor"
> Radiator Corrosion Inhibitor Each ZX747496U
>
><http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000213385/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000213385/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000213385>
>
> $12.99
>
Steve Laifman
Editor - TigersUnited.com
JHMEARSRN@aol.com wrote:
> I ordered a new Temperature Sender from Sunbeam Specialties. I notice the
>new
>one has straight threads and the original one has tapered threads kind of
>like a
>plumbing pipe. When I screw in the new one it threads in easily for several
>turns
>but bottoms out before the gasket /washer is snug. I don't want to keep
>tightening
>and damage something. I don't believe Rick would sell these if they were
>unusable.
>Any recommendations? Teflon tape? A thick nylon washer? A bushing of some
>kind?
>Any advice appreciated.
>
>John Mears
>9471072
|