Wayne,
The main promogulated advantage of the stainless steel fan blades is
it's ability to "flex".
This is also the reason it makes a lousy air pump. The blades flatten
out at higher rpm, and pull no air through. The aluminum fan blades are
stiffer, do not flatten out, and continue to pump air over 30 mph.
This fan's cure makes the disease worse. If you don't mind trimming the
blade tips a bit, and enlarging the central hole to 1 inch, the Ford
8600 (canadian factory) fan is recommended. Assuring, of course, that
someone hasn't been dicking around with pulleys, there is plenty of
front clearance, and 25% sticks out the back of the shroud.
Steve
___
Steve Laifman
Editor - TigersUnited.com
MSN wrote:
>Bud:
>
>In an ideal world everything would align perfectly according to the best
>"theories". Clearly, life ain't perfect.
>
>I had major heating problems in my restored MkII despite having done
>everything I could think of and taking heaps of advice. I have solved the
>heating problem big time and now actually find the car has difficulty
>maintaining "ideal" operating temperature.
>
>The fan in my car is quite far forward and just clears the radiator. The
>rear of the fan just protrudes from the shroud. I had to actually bend the
>fan blades toward the back to satisfy myself that they would not hit the
>radiator. I am using a stainless flexible-blade fan I purchased from Summit
>a few years back (Flex a lite - cost $30). The fan blades come very close to
>the upper radiator hose and would in fact hit the hose if I did not tie the
>hose to the engine block.
>
>By far the primary cause for Tiger engine heat problems is lack of adequate
>air flow through the radiator. The Tiger does NOT need a better radiator
>(unless of course yours is clogged).
>
>I have tried every imaginable method for ensuring air flow through the
>radiator. In the end the best method I found was a simple pusher fan located
>in front of the radiator. I tried a variety of these fans and found one that
>really works well (some might say too well). I am running a 12 inch straight
>blade pusher fan from Summit (Summit brand - cost $70).
>
>The pusher fan is modulated by a thermal switch that fits into the stock
>radiator drain petcock, which is manufactured by Vintage Air - cost $12.
>
>The combination works. I can now idle in traffic all day in 100 F Maryland
>summer weather (99% humidity). I cook but the engine is just fine. Once
>driving faster than about 35 mph the air flow through the radiator is
>adequate to keep things cool (in my case actually cooler than "ideal"
>operating temp especially on sub 80F weather).
>
>Good luck,
>
>Wayne
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