If opening the bleeder screw does not relieve brake shoe pressure on the
drum, it sounds like wheel cylinder problems, not master cylinder.
>>> "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com> 12/15/2004 6:11:43 AM >>>
Thanks for all the input. The idea of the piston not retracting fully
in the
master cylinder finally sparked something in me (around 4:00 AM to be
exact).
I knew the rod was fitted ok to the piston since the rod came with the
new
small bore cylinder. The old rod was too big, or at least the washer
for it
was, to fit in the bore of the new cylnder. But..
The new rod that came with the new cylinder from CAT had a threaded end
but no
bracket or whatever it is called to fasten to the brake pedal arm. So I
had to
cut the bracket end off of the old rod and drill a hole in it, thread
it and
mount it to the new rod. I used lock nuts on both sides of the bracket
to hold
it firmly versus finding someone to weld it for me.
When I went to install it the lock nut that was inside the arms of the
bracket
didn't allow me to fasten the bracket/ rod combination to the furthest
away
hole on the brake pedal arm. So I used the inner one. I couldn't
remember then
which hole was the right one.
In retrospect, using the closer (to the master cylinder) hole on the
pedal arm
like I did would limit the return of the piston in the cylinder. To try
the
hole that would give more travel, and perhaps allow the release of
fluid in
the cylinder, it looks like I will need to weld the bracket to the rod
so
there is no interference with the brake arm thus allowing the bracket
to be
fitted up to the further away hole.
Assuming that is my original problem then the only issue is to make
sure I
have the right length for the master cylinder rod before I weld it. Is
there
any guidance on this issue?
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A Wings done, QB fuselage, tail about done
Cherokee N5320W
Harley Road King Classic
Sunbeam Tiger
Maybe I need a sailboat - I've been looking : )
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