tigers
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Hot Wire

To: rpalmer@ucsd.edu
Subject: Re: Hot Wire
From: Steve Sage <ssage@socal.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Jul 2003 17:35:37 -0700
Bob Palmer wrote:

>Steve,
>
>I strongly doubt the short length of wire you are using would cause the
>intermittent problem you describe. But I am uncertain as to why you needed
>to add three more loops around the pickup, unless you are also running an
>MSD-6 or similar device that reduces the current drain through the
>distributor. I went to the Pertronics Website and they recommend you measure
>the coil voltage and resistance and don't run more than 8 amperes. It does
>not say to remove the ballast from the circuit if it's needed to keep the
>current within spec. I don't know any reason why changing to solid-state
>points would change the running voltage of the coil. There are 12V coils and
>9V coils. If you use a ballast, then you should use a 9V coil. If you have
>removed the ballast, then you need a 12V coil, which most any European car
>(BMW, Audi, MB, etc.) will use. My guess is that you are overheating the
>coil and it is going intermittent on you. Buy a good 12V coil for about $25
>and maybe your problem will go away.
>
>Bob Palmer
>  
>
Bob:
I use the Pertonix II and their 50,000 volt Flamethrower II coil (which 
needs a full 12 volts to run, and which I've tested for and it gets just 
that) and for this, they do recommend bypassing the resistor, which I 
did. When I did the install, the tach would only be accurate at idle 
(about 800 RPM) and anything above that caused the needle to fly around 
uncontrollably. One extra loop and it read OK to about 1500 RPM, the 
second loop to about 2500 RPM and, for some reason, the final extra loop 
allows the tach to read dead on accurate all the way up to 6,000 RPM.

I sent the ignition module and the coil back to Pertronix a couple of 
months ago and they tested them for me and confirmed both work properly, 
and also that my wiring under the hood is correct. They specifically 
said they don't think the coil is causing the problem. Of course, they 
could be wrong too. For whatever reason, though, that white wire from 
the harness to the back of the tach does get very warm.

Steve Sage

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>