Theo,
I installed one as you describe in July 2001, after having a rupture of the
hydraulic switch resulting in loss of braking. I know of another such
instance with a Tiger, which resulted in the Tiger rear-ending the car in
front of it. So, if only for safety reasons, I would recommend replacing the
hydraulic switch with a plug and installing a mechanical unit, which fits
conveniently under the box frame just ahead of the brake pedal arm. Just
about any old switch will do; I found a new one a NAPA. I wrote up the
details which may have been posted on the TU Website, but I haven't been
able to access it for awhile to check.
Hydraulically operated switches are fragile and only carry about 5A of
current. I found the following anecdote regarding the installation of
hydraulic brake switches that some may find helpful:
Brake Light Switch
From: LONETUNE
Am I the last one to know about this or what? after putting in four brake
light switches in the last year or so, I finally asked the guy at the parts
store how come...he asked me how I was putting them in and I said screwing
them in by hand and then cranking them down tight with a pair of channel
locks...he looked at me like I just asked to have sex with his wife...he
proceeded to tell me that the switches are cheap, lightweight aluminum and
plastic and as such, they are fragile to the tender touch of the channel
locks...he then showed me K & D tools part number 2569 oil pressure and
stoplight switch socket that cost a grand total of 8 bucks (less then the
cost of 1 2 brake switches I must add) designed to tighten and remove
switches...it's a special designed 1 1/16 inch socket...to all those out
there that never saw this tool, now you know...to the old pros out there,
sorry to take up the bandwidth
Bob Palmer
rpalmer@ucsd.edu
rpalmer@brobeck.com
rpalmerbob@adelphia.net
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