Steve, and All. I have know of people who put graphite into the
ignition switch, just like the locks on the door.
It's OK for the locks, but graphite is a electrical conduit, and excess
will provide a source of contact between internal connections such as a
ignition switch, if it get to these contacts.
Use a vacuum gauge to adjust the idle circuit on your carb. This does
it the right way, instead of guessing, and the gauge is cheap.
Steve Sage wrote:
>I think I've solved both my run on and stalling problems. Of course I
>can't guarantee it won't happen again.
>
>As to the run-on after shutting the motor off, I just slightly leaned
>out the Holley carb idle screws (I ended up just screwing them in no
>more than 1/2 turn each from where they were, without effecting the
>RPMs). No more "chugging" after the key is off. The carb must have been
>dumping just a bit too much fuel down there at idle so it puddled after
>the key was turned off, and was re-ignited by engine heat.
>
>The only obvious thing I could find to cause it to stall from idle
>intermittently was the main (brown) power wire going the the back of the
>ignition switch was not on there very tight. It must have just jiggled
>occassionally enough to stop voltage from going to the ignition. I
>crimped the wire on tightly and the car did no more stalling yesterday
>or so far today. In hindsight, when I had the ignition switch out a few
>weeks ago, I think I thought that the main wire was a bit loose but then
>forgot to do anything about it. I still went ahead and ordered a new
>ignition switch from SS since the other potential cause is that I think
>the contacts inside might be sticking or wearing out. It's very stiff to
>turn the key, and maybe that had some effect on the car stalling too.
>
>Thanks for the help from the list.
>
>Steve Sage
>
>
>
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