Steve, sounds like you need to get a base line on what you have. If you
have a timing light, with the vac, plugged off, runt the engine in
degrees up to 3600 rpm, and plot the advance curve from idle to 3600
rpm, in 200 rpm increments. This along with the cam that you have will
tell you where you are, and what changes you make will mean.
A vacuum pump w/ gauge will tell you what the vacuum is doing so that
you have initial advance, total advance, and vac advance. Pinging is
normally the advance curve.
Bogging is normally the off idle circuit to jetting of the carb,
assuming that your secondaries don't open too soon, which will give you
a bog, and is normally the cause of bog. If you used carb out of the
box, and no tuning, then it could be jetting or vac, or even accelerator
pump, but not normally.
If I remember, the Avenger has lots of neat adjustment for vac secondaries.
As I mentioned in my Solve the Problem, Holley is very good on helping,
but you must tell them the whole story, just like a doctor.
On you hot ignition switch, you could pull of accessory items, like your
ac and see what makes it hot. Trying to pull too much current from a
host of items, will make anyone hot.
A better route is to use a relay, they are cheap, and run the hot wire
to the battery post on the solenoid, and the the other wire to the
solenoid to just act as a switch. Then no load problem. In fact this
is good for all high current items, like horns, headlights, big stereos,
fog lights, what ever.
You will be surprised how bright your lights will become.
Over all, I am still a Big fan of having the car dyno tuned, as a good
dyno man, can get a lot out of the car for the money.
Local Tiger guy had Ford crate 320 hp engine and Holley vac, and never
realized the potential of the engine till dyno tuned. Now NOOOOOOO Bog,
just traction problems.
Good luck.
Larry
ssage@socal.rr.com wrote:
> Hello Tiger Fans:
> A new question, but first, thanks for the advice last week on my hot
> ignition switch. I took a lister's advice and took the switch out,
> washed it out with an electronics cleaner spray, dried it and
> re-installed. Turns out it still gets hot. However, in checking all the
> wires back there I've installed (it looks something like the Spaghetti
> Factory under the dash...one of these years I'll neaten it up), I found
> a connection I'd forgotten about. When I had installed my Tiger air
> conditioning, I ran a guide wire from the ignition switch "On" post to
> the AC fan blower switch so that the AC compressor can only work with
> the ignition on. Even though this wire is only supposed to sense the
> ignition "on" position and not carry a lot of voltage, it heats up the
> ignition switch for some reason. (Power for the AC blowe comes directly
> from the fuse block, not the ign. switch). I'm going to instead run the
> wire from the AC fan switch to the mighty Lucas fuse block under the
> hood (adding an extra in line fuse, of course), and see if that cools
> things down. If that doesn't work, it's probably my Pertronix hot coil,
> and I'll try Steve L's suggestion to install a switch relay.
>
> I've had a severe "pinging" problem with my hi-po 289 since it was
> installed a couple of years ago that I think I've finally solved by
> playing around with different distributor advance springs. Now, I can
> stand on the pedal and rev it up past 6,000RPM (where my courage runs
> out) and, today anyway, no pinging. However, off idle, there's a huge
> "bog". Now, when I nail the pedal in first, the car kind of sits there
> (it's moving, but not too fast) and then around 23-2500 RPM it really
> takes off like a bat out of *&^%%$$!!. I run a Holley Street Avenger 570
> CFM vacuum secondary carb. I put the next step heavier secondary spring
> in and no improvement, maybe even a bit worse. I'll try a heavier spring
> yet tommorow, but the instruction sheet for the spring kit says that
> secondary bogs usually happen above 2000 RPM, and that bogs off idle are
> "more likely" accelerator pump issues.
>
> Or, could the distributor springs I put in be too stiff, delaying
> advance for too long (with everything suddenly cutting in at 2500 RPM)?
> Maybe I should leave one of the new stiffer springs in and put back one
> of the old softer springs and see if the "bog" goes away.
>
> What's the opinion out there?
>
> Thanks, as usual.
> Steve Sage
> 1967 MK1A
>
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