Tom, First Please put paragraphs in your posting. It's very hard to read this
way.
Now, have you reassembled the rear assembly. If not, or even if you have, put
anti seize on the mating parts. If you do the run out properly, and not just
extra shims, as you may be surprised that it may not be enough, then you need
to take it apart till you have it right. I have tried everything, and only
anti seize will work on tight parts that you want to take apart. That includes
suspension parts.
You can make shims, go to a machine shop, go to a really good old style auto
parts store, a Mac truck company, CAT as in Catipiler shop, and act like you
really need help. They have them, and you may have to cut them to fit, but no
problem.
If you ruined the rear drums, the Alpine fit.
Larry
Tom Witt wrote:
> -Many months ago when I pulled the axles (hub, bearings, backing plate etc.
> as a unit) it took a special homemade puller and and about 20 full force
> wacks with a 10 pound sledge hammer before the outer bearing shell would
> release from its rear housing (yes, the backing plate was unbolted, I did
> apply heat and no there was no rust present). This in turn has ruined the
> bearings. 1. My concern is that when reinstalling is the mere force of the
> backing plates being tightened supposed to move the outer bearing shell back
> into the housing? It took a W-H-O-L-E lot more force to get it out (like as
> in the force almost pulled the car off the jackstands). 2. It seems prudent
> to use too many shims to initially set the axle endplay. That way the extra
> shims (where can they be purchased?) could just be removed (after taking a
> reading), the backing plate retightened and the setting should be proper. My
> concern here is that if the reading is no endplay or too little I will have
> to apply opposite force to the bearing (to create the play) which in my case
> damaged the bearings prior. Does anyone recommend honing the axle bearing
> bore out (slightly, I know it can't be loose) to make the fitting less
> compressed. Note: I would not trust using the old shim values as the
> differential was changed and the floating piece that that transfers the
> thrust may be of a slightly different dimention. Not to mention that there
> was no detectable endplay before I pulled it apart anyway.
> -Are there any brake drums from other cars that fit the Tiger? I heard
> something about the "available at Pick A Part" Mercury Capri (the old ones).
> The hubs also took gargantuan force to remove. As many of you probably know
> the axle with the backing plate attached is not conducive to removing the
> hub (or the bearing for that matter) with a press as it gets in the way. In
> my 101 attempts to get the hub off I tried supporting the hub with the drum.
> Big mistake. Advantage - stuck hub! Now I need a drum (and being that this
> may be the most "budget" Tiger rebuild - ever - buying a new one is not "on
> budget"). If anyone has a deal on a used drum I'm listening or if you have
> an old out of legal spec hub for free (I'm in Thousand Oaks Ca.), well,
> temporarily I just need to push the car around, but it would be nice to have
> brakes regardless of how slow a push is. By the way, to get the hub off I
> finally bolted it to the spare tire (with the air out), closely supported
> the rim with two sawhorses, applied penetrating oil, heated the hub,
> cushioned the loosened castlenut with a steel plate and wacked the thing at
> least ten times with full overhead swings from a 10 pound sledge hammer
> before it would come loose. Again as with the bearings there was virtually
> no rust. It seems absurd to me that repairs can be made removing these parts
> with an ordinary slide hammer and that the parts won't get damaged in the
> process. At least not after what I experienced. Thanks if any can help in
> any way, Tom Witt B9470101
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