Thanks for the suggestions from the list as to why the choke on my new
Holly Street Avenger carb. wasn.t workoing. Sre enough, it wasn't
getting any, much less 12 volts. I tested the wire from the harness
that's supposed to power the choke and no voltage. As someone suggested,
I ran a wire from the fuse block from a post that's only live with the
ignition on, plugged it into the choke and now it works!
As to the carb. itself, it's a new Holley item, 570 CFM instead of 600
(Holley says this is because 600 is too much for most street cars unless
you're approaching 375-400 hp, which I'm not). It's got a few neat
features and, Holley says, a completely new fuel circuit that gets much
better all around response. I don't know about the technology, but
taking off my old worn out Holley 1850-2 and installing the new one has
made for a dramatic improvement. The car feels much faster and has
instant throttle response. Idle is smoother and the car starts instantly
from cold on the electric choke. What I figured would be a one or two
hour job turned out to take all day, though, having to move the coil so
the dual fuel feed pipe would fit. I got some great suggestions from the
list on that too.
Which brings me to another question. I could not get the throttle cable
to line up properly (on my old carb or the new, which is configured that
way exactly the same). It would bind through the cable housing no matter
what I did....raising and lowering the cable bracket, angling it
differently, whatever. Staring at that bracket (the one that bolts to
the manifold) I started to wonder exactly why it is needed. I unbolted
it and let the cable assume its own course. Now not only is there no
binding, the carb. throttle returns to closed on its own, without an
extra "helper" spring from the front manifold bracket, just using the
return spring on the carb itself.
My plan is to just attach the outer cable housing where it runs through
the firewall, so the cable doesn't rub against the pass through hole,
and forget about the bracket on the manifold. Any problem with this?
Also, the pedal response is so great without an extra "helper" spring,
is there a reason I need to run the helper return spring if I keep an
eye on the spring on the carb. itself to make sure it's in working
order?
Thanks!
Steve Sage
1967 MK1A 289 5 speed
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