At 02:43 PM 10/14/00 -0700, you wrote:
>Tom,
>
>Great idea, as usual. The use of a STEEL adapter, as opposed to the pot
>metal hydraulics we have, makes the difference.
>
>I have also found, as just reported, that a cheap flaring tool lets the
>tube slip in the grip on the first form with the Double Flare adapter
>tool.
>
>This is a great solution for a one-shot, but for a resto, or more than a
>one tube quick fix, isn't purchasing the Sunbeam Specialties finished
>tubes, in the approx. lengths, a better solution, and spend your saved
>flaring tool money money on a good tube bender?
Me thinks I have not made myself clear. The steel adapter is used
to help develop the final form and then the tube is removed and installed
normally in the aluminium alloy components. I do use Rick's tubes, but
they only come in fixed lengths and those lengths are not necessarily the
same as OEM length so you must get creative in your routing to use up the
longer tubing lengths. A good flairing tool is imperative. Any slippage
typically tears at, and weakens the OD of the brake tubing. A good tool is
easily recognized as having more thickness to grasp the tube and normally a
machined finish as opposed to a cast or forged body.
Tom
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