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Re: valve float

To: "Chris Vaught" <CVaught@Hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: Re: valve float
From: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 May 2000 20:50:42 -0700
Chris,

Try taking out the extra fuel filter first; maybe check to see that the 
Fram isn't loaded up too. This is probably where your problem is, not the 
ignition. However, it shouldn't hurt the coil to run it on 12V for long 
enough to do a test. I figured jumpering the ballast resistor was a lot 
easier than re-gapping all the plugs. BTW, even the best high performance 
coil still rolls over and dies at high rpms. That's why MSD ignitions are 
so popular. Otherwise, you have to keep your plug gap 0.035" or less to run 
to 6,000 rpm. I run 0.055" with my MSD and it still fires strong at higher 
rpms than I should really be running - at least now that I replaced my bad 
coil. (Long story).

Good luck,

Bob

At 03:40 PM 5/25/00 -0700, Chris Vaught wrote:
>i do have a fuel filter on the inlet. in fact i have two. i have the fram
>racing filter and a clear one before that i can see how much gunk is coming
>from my tanks. i will remove the clear one and give it a whirl. i do not
>know diddle about the springs, that is why i though valve float. i have not
>messed with the heads besides having seats and a three angle valve job. i
>want the edelbrock heads so why bother with these. BTW who was doing the
>edelbrock heads and how did they turn out. it could be the ignition but i
>have a good set up as long as it is working fine. there is a ceramic
>resistor that i am using. will it hurt anything to jumper past it? i would
>hate to bun up the coil or dist. as much work as i have put into this i
>still want more power. i think a tranny or rear gear swap will be in the
>works first though.
>thanks
>chris in hawaii


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