Listers,
As usual Theo is absolutely right and in no way did I mean to imply the
rivets are the only way to authenticate. In fact, a pair of these rivets
recently sold on ebay for, I believe the unbelievable price of $67 for the
pair which means to me that the rivets in and by themselves do not mean it
is a Tiger. Assuming the potential buyer is not a Tiger expert (like me),
one of the best ways of verification is to find someone who is (which I did,
Larry Atkisson) who gave me comfort that the car I was buying was a real
Tiger. Theo was also correct in steering you to Norm Miller's tiger
registry. you can go to website http://www.corpdemo.com/tiger/default.htm
from which you can get to Norm's site. I would try to get as many people as
possible to look at the car because, as one lister pointed out, there are
very few prople who know all the inticacies of the car. For example, even as
a novice, I know the placement of the fuel pump and battery are different on
a Tiger. However, verifying these items are correct simply means that there
is nothing in these areas to preclude the car being original, not that it is
original. Since you are looking for Tiger modifications that have been
overlooked or done badly, the more items you can verify, the better.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Theo Smit [mailto:TSMIT@isotel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 10:44 AM
To: 'tigers@autox.team.net'
Cc: 'Joseph Bradley'
Subject: RE: Real
As a non-original-rivets Tiger owner, I'll say that there are still lots of
ways to verify the authenticity of the bodyshell besides the rivets. There
are two things to worry about if it doesn't have original rivets: 1. The
bodyshell is a Tiger but not the one that matches the VIN tag; or (2) the
bodyshell is a converted Alpine.
The knowledgeable Tiger owner can probably spot a converted Alpine unless
it's extremely carefully done. If the bodyshell is a different Tiger than
what's represented by the VIN, then there will possibly be subtle clues,
such as various drill holes etc. not being in the right place, or welded-on
details being missing, and so on, but it will still be a Tiger.
Of course, both are illegal from a technical standpoint (as is removing or
defacing the VIN plate in the first place).
Still the best place to start, if you have access to the car, is to get:
The VIN number (B947xxxxx, B948xxxxx, B38200xxxx, or B382100xxx), and other
numbers on the VIN plate
The JAL number (screwed onto the cowl inboard of the VIN plate)
The transmission, engine, and diff ID numbers
Lock cylinder numbers
Some idea of the original color of the shell (look under the dash - this
doesn't help if the car was stripped & dipped).
Then take all this information to the tiger registry (Norm Miller at the
Rootes Group Depot, I don't have his email address off the top of my head,
search for it on the web), and he can tell you if all those pieces of ID
match up with factory records. If everything matches, that proves all those
parts came off of the same Tiger. If the bodyshell color was originally
correct, and the bodyshell is the right series, then you're on reasonably
safe ground, but get someone knowledgeable to look at the car even so.
Regards,
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Parfitt, Bill @ PDX [SMTP:BParfitt@GlacierNW.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 3:23 AM
> To: 'tigers@autox.team.net'
> Subject: Real
>
> Listers,
>
> Also don't forget those all important rivets holding the VIN tag.
> Besides being TAC'd, I believe this is this is the single most important
> element to give comfort as to authenticity. My car has been TAC'd and the
> certificate itself has a kind of disclaimer if the original rivets are not
> in place. I also talked to one of the inspectors who said that if the
> original rivets are not in place, bells and whistles go off. Of course,
> there are plenty of real Tigers that do not have the rivets and are not
> TAC'd and even with these, nothing in life is guarenteed. However, I paid
> a
> lot of money for my car and it sure helps me sleep better.
>
>
> Bill
>
>
> B382000505LRXFE (with rivets)
>
>
> TAC # 333
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