In addition to Mr. Cullen's excellent advice, I'll add this suggestion:
I have used four pieces of threaded rod that matched the manifold bolts as
guides. Cut 4 pieces, each about 3"-4" long and screw them into the manifold
bolt holes on the head. Don't cut the heads off of old manifold bolts, as they
won't be long enough to have something to grip on to get them out, once the
manifold is in place.
With the guide rods in place, slide the manifold down over them. The guides
align the manifold and prevent shifting, which causes the leaks. When the
manifold is bedded, insert a few 'real' manifold bolts and remove the guides.
One thought on silicone sealants - I have seen a number of engines where the oil
pick-up is clogged with strands of silicone rubber that had fallen off. A few
years ago I began using the line of Yamaha motorcycle sealants (brand name
'Yamabond') on my engine products and have had much better results that what I
had with permatex products. Does the phrase "Leak free British Motorcycle" mean
anything?
Regards
Peter S.
B9471799
Bennett Cullen-P21988 wrote:
> In response to Bob:
> ?After these two gaskets are securely in place, then you can put some
> silicone,
> ?Permatex, or whatever you like on the top surfaces, especially at the four
> ?interlocking joints, just before you install the manifold.
> In a book I read, I believe it was "Rebuilding Your Small Block Ford" there
> was a recommendation to put a double row (side by side) of sealant(s) across
> the ends. One of RTV (silicon rubber) and the other one of Permatex (thick
> dark brown or black goo in a tube). Set the manifold on gently, wiggle it a
> bit, start the bolts, but do not snug them down for 24 hrs. I followed this
> recommendation and have not had any leaks (yet).
> Cullen Bennett
> Tempe, Arizona USA
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