Colin,
This is exactly why I recommend replacing those 7/16" studs with 1/2". As
for an easy way to replace them, the usual procedure is to pull the hub -
which can be tough if they haven't been pulled recently. I assume you have
notes on how best to do this. If not, we can help. I know someone who made
holes in the backing plates to let him replace the studs. I haven't tried
this myself, but feel free to try it - at your own risk of course. I would
recommend pulling the hub so you can do a proper job of machining the hub
for 1/2" studs- or even the 7/16" replacement which may have a bigger
knurled shank.
I believe there were some postings on recommended lug torques posted awhile
back. I think 50 lb-ft of torque is too much - well, at least way more than
you need. They don't get stronger the more you torque them. I think you
just want enough to ensure they don't come loose again. I think I remember
around 35 lb-ft being recommended. Maybe you should check the calibration
of your torque wrench if you are breaking lug bolts at 50 lb-ft - or maybe
the lug manufacturer.
Brgds,
Bob
At 05:35 PM 10/31/99 -0600, Colin Cobb wrote:
>Hey Guys,
>
>While torquing a lug nut down to an outrageous 50#, I managed to bust a 7/16"
>stud on the rear of Tigger. On the disc end of the car, replacing a stud is a
>snap, but the drum end don't seem so easy...
>
>Anybody have any suggestions for the best approach when replacing a stud on
>the drum end?
>
>Anybody disagree with torquing the lug nuts to 50# on mag wheels?
>
>Cheers!
>
>--Colin Cobb, Las Cruces, NM
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