"Daniel S. Eiland" wrote:
> Reused existing brake lines although I had to remove the double flare
> and fitting and go with a single flare which I did myself as well.
> Dan Eiland in El Paso
Dan,
A bit confused here on "flares". There are many kinds, but in the car
hydraulics field there is the "double flare", requiring some non-cheap
tooling, for high pressure applications. These are similar to the single flare
the cheap tools make, but have a double wall on the seal. This is formed in
two steps. First, the tube is "bulged" into a shape like this <>===. Then the
tip is folded into the center to make a "double wall" flare, like this >>====.
This is much stronger than the single flare for high pressure (brake/clutch)
use. You really don't have to own such a tool as they can either be rented, or
you can buy a pre made tube of many lengths with the ends already formed and
new outer nuts.
The English, bless them, have yet another method named "bubble flare". The
ends are meant to be properly sealed against the already formed section in the
hydraulics, and look more like the first stage of a double flare, <>=====.
These, too, can be bought from Sunbeam Specialties in a variety of lengths for
replacement purposes.
On the Midland (or any other American unit) you need a different flare on each
end. A bubble flare for the Girling master cylinder, and a "double flare" for
the American Midland-Ross booster, both inlet and outlet.
I presume your installation tube-cut the original (leaving the bubble at the
distribution block and master cylinder) and the "single flare" at the booster.
It may be worth your while to measure the finished lengths you have (or would
like) and order some new tube form SS. You can then mark the lengths and have
a garage with the professional tool but the correct flare on the servo end.
Nothing worse than loosing pressure in your brakes, or leaking out the fluid by
the drop.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
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