At 11:45 AM 2/6/99 -0800, Dave Binkley wrote:
>Well, while the crossmember is out being powdercoated (2 week turn around)
>I'm thinking pretty hard about dropping the motor out the bottom and
>changing the clutch. So, this question is for those of you who have done
>this procedure before. Two questions:
>
>1. Do you need to take the water pump off? Looks like it will clear to me,
>but I don't want to be in the middle of this and have it hang up somewhere.
>
>2. How do you get the right exhaust pipe clear? I have it disconnected
>from the exhaust manifold, but it is definitely still in the way. I got the
>left pipe roatated, pulled back and out of the way. Unable so far to do
>that on the right side. My system is stock manifold and exhaust pipes.
>Can't disconnect the right hand side pipes forward of the muffler due the
>two pipes being welded together. It really looks like this right pipe is
>going to be in the way when I lower the motor.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dave
Dave,
Here's some previous postings pertaining to your question:
><< Is it possible to remove the transmission in a Tiger Mk 1A without also
> removing the engine? >>
>John-
>Not to be a smartaxx, but anything is POSSIBLE, and I know of some who have
>been able to pull just the tranny to do a clutch etc. Getting the top bell
>housing bolts requires ingenuity and making room to clear the input shaft or
>to get to the pressure plate bolts would also be interesting. Probably, when
>everything is said and done, easier to just drop the crossmember and bring the
>whole shooting match out the bottom. Besides, there is always something to be
>done while the engine is out of the car which will bring a smile to your face.
>Mike Wood
>B382002273
>W John Gardiner wrote:
>
>
> Is it possible to remove the transmission in a Tiger Mk 1A without also
> removing the engine?
>
>
>John,
>
>
>Yes it is, but this is one heavy tranny. One method involves the drilling of
>holes in the firewall to reach the upper bell housing bolts. This
>disfigurement is NOT necessary.
>
>
>You do need two special, though not difficult tools. One is a
>wobble-extension with socket, commonly used in air wrenches, but also
>available as a set of 1/4, 3/8, an 1/2 inch extensions for normal manual
>socket wrenches. I paid about $10 at Pep Boys. This is used to
>remove those upper bolts by allowing the socket to be passed between the
>transmission and the firewall from below. The socket can stay flat
>against the upper bolts, and the extension can be angled down to where a
>socket can turn the sucker.
>
>
>The other tool is a stubby, or cutoff wrench for the transmission to bell
>housing bolts. This short wrench, in combination with a vice grip,
>can allow the upper transmission/bell housing bolts to be removed. All the
>other bolts are simple.
>
>
>The drive shaft must be removed from the differential yoke, and the drive
>shaft slipped out of the transmission, of course.
>
>
>The shift lever is removed from the top by removing the fixing nuts, you don't
>have to remove the whole shifter assembly.
>
>
>The engine must be supported, as you are going to remove the rear cross member
>and motor mount. You back the tranny up, the bell
>housing will come loose from both the engine and tranny, and once the pilot
>shaft clears you can lower all the parts. The tranny is heavy,
>and you would do well to have a lift available, so you aren't on your back,
>and some strong young fellows to help move all that weight.
>Give them the beer later. If you are going to be lower to the ground, I
>strongly recommend a good adjustable transmission jack. This mother
>is heavy.
>
>
>The speedo drive hold-down nut is accessible thru a hole in the tranny cover
>inside the car. It is easy to remove, before lowering the tranny,
>but not so easy to put back. I recommend cutting the hold-down bracket for
>reinstallation, as none but the English have enough tiny fingers
>to put everything back, without a lot of diddling. Just cut the ring over the
>cable so that it can slip over the cable hold-down flat by pivoting
>on the hold-down bolt going into the smaller hole on the other end. This is
>then bolted to the tranny in an "up" position without the cable in
>place. Plenty of room for this, before or after reinstallation. After the
>cable and drive end are inserted fully into the tranny, just loosen that
>clamp hold-down bolt, and the "hook" will slip into place. Then tighten the
>hold down and it's done.
>
>
>While you've got this thing apart, examine and replace the clutch, driven
>disc, and throw-out bearing if they are not perfect. You don't want
>to do this again to replace them. Oh yes, there are some other bit's and
>pieces involved, like the slave cylinder and bracket, but then you
>wouldn't;t be trying this if you didn't know all these little details already,
>I certainly hope.
>
>
>There are about 50 things that also must be done, and these are normally
>considered "shop practice" by experienced mechanics. If you are a
>"first-timer" in these kinds of heavy installations, I recommend a good tranny
>shop, and these hints to help him stay out of the "Oh, Sh-t"
>situation. The whole job of R&R can be done in one day, if you've got all the
>parts and tools. You didn't specify why you are removing the tranny, but if
>it's to rebuild the thing, you better consider that you may be tying up a
>lift, or transmission jack rental a few days until you're ready to reinstall.
>Not a great idea. Better to have the new, or rebuilt parts before you start
>(including a rear motor mount).
>
>
>Oh, yes. One last little piece of information. If you have headers, forget
>these simple instructions, they get in the way and must be removed
>first.
>
>
>Have fun.
>
>
>Steve
>
>
>--
>Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
>B9472289 < one first love, and >
> < one first win, is all >
> < you get in this life. >
and from Bill Martin,
>Gentlemen,
>
>
> I just performed this most difficult operation, on my back, in my garage.
> It is a pain in the ass!, but it can be done.
> John, if you are going to replace the drive gear then concider rebuilding
> your transmission while it is out, I did it with Dan williams kit and a
> new output shaft from Dan. I used his road race kit which comes with the
> bronze blocking rings and all of his highest quality components. He
> provides a 25 page rebuilders manual which is a big help.
>
>
> Trans removal, I pulled the drive shaft, trans mount, and shifter then
> used long extensions to get the bell housing bolts. The upper trans bolts
> are the hardest part of this operation, its up to you to decide whether
> or not to drill holes to get the uppers. You must loosen or remove the
> manifold or header bolts. If you plan on doing the clutch it would be
> easier to yank the motor and trans together.
>
>
> Good luck,
> Bill.
Hope this helps Dave,
Bob
Robert L. Palmer
Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com
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