Mike,
I believe that 3M 414Q Imperial Wetordry color sanding paper A wt.,
MicroFine 1500 is the finest final sanding paper available. Follow the
final color sanding with this paper with a buffing with 3M Finesse-it II
Finishing Material, Part No. 051131-05928 for a swirl-free finish.
Have fun!!
Bob
At 08:21 PM 11/28/98 -0500, MWood24020@aol.com wrote:
>(caution: not Tiger or Shelby related. Thank goodness it does have something
>to do with autos.)
>Getting ready to sell my Formula Vee vintage racer (anyone want a good
one, E-
>mail me privately), I saw that our cat had done a number on the paint on one
>side of the car (also available: one slightly used cat...Oh, never mind,
>she'll make a good floor mat).
>Thinking I had a little repaint/blend ahead of me, I took some 800 grit
wet to
>the paint. The scratches are just superficial, come right out.
>Now to my point: What is the best process for color sanding and final
buffing?
>I am thinking I need to go to at least 1200-1500 wet and then take a buffing
>wheel to what's left. Does this sound about right?
>Also, what are good brands/types of compounds, waxes etc. to get the paint to
>really "pop" when I am all done?
>I appreciate all advice you all would be willing to share.
>Mike Wood
>'67 Tiger 302 GT40
>'67 Crusader FV vintage racer
>'77 Yamaha RD400 cafe racer
>Looking for '64-65 Falcon for vintage race/open track project
>
Robert L. Palmer
Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com
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