W John Gardiner wrote:
Is it possible to remove the transmission in a Tiger Mk 1A without also
removing the engine?
John,
Yes it is, but this is one heavy tranny. One method involves the drilling of
holes in the firewall to reach the upper bell housing bolts. This
disfigurement is NOT necessary.
You do need two special, though not difficult tools. One is a
wobble-extension with socket, commonly used in air wrenches, but also
available as a set of 1/4, 3/8, an 1/2 inch extensions for normal manual
socket wrenches. I paid about $10 at Pep Boys. This is used to
remove those upper bolts by allowing the socket to be passed between the
transmission and the firewall from below. The socket can stay flat
against the upper bolts, and the extension can be angled down to where a
socket can turn the sucker.
The other tool is a stubby, or cutoff wrench for the transmission to bell
housing bolts. This short wrench, in combination with a vice grip,
can allow the upper transmission/bell housing bolts to be removed. All the
other bolts are simple.
The drive shaft must be removed from the differential yoke, and the drive
shaft slipped out of the transmission, of course.
The shift lever is removed from the top by removing the fixing nuts, you don't
have to remove the whole shifter assembly.
The engine must be supported, as you are going to remove the rear cross member
and motor mount. You back the tranny up, the bell
housing will come loose from both the engine and tranny, and once the pilot
shaft clears you can lower all the parts. The tranny is heavy,
and you would do well to have a lift available, so you aren't on your back,
and some strong young fellows to help move all that weight.
Give them the beer later. If you are going to be lower to the ground, I
strongly recommend a good adjustable transmission jack. This mother
is heavy.
The speedo drive hold-down nut is accessible thru a hole in the tranny cover
inside the car. It is easy to remove, before lowering the tranny,
but not so easy to put back. I recommend cutting the hold-down bracket for
reinstallation, as none but the English have enough tiny fingers
to put everything back, without a lot of diddling. Just cut the ring over the
cable so that it can slip over the cable hold-down flat by pivoting
on the hold-down bolt going into the smaller hole on the other end. This is
then bolted to the tranny in an "up" position without the cable in
place. Plenty of room for this, before or after reinstallation. After the
cable and drive end are inserted fully into the tranny, just loosen that
clamp hold-down bolt, and the "hook" will slip into place. Then tighten the
hold down and it's done.
While you've got this thing apart, examine and replace the clutch, driven
disc, and throw-out bearing if they are not perfect. You don't want
to do this again to replace them. Oh yes, there are some other bit's and
pieces involved, like the slave cylinder and bracket, but then you
wouldn't;t be trying this if you didn't know all these little details already,
I certainly hope.
There are about 50 things that also must be done, and these are normally
considered "shop practice" by experienced mechanics. If you are a
"first-timer" in these kinds of heavy installations, I recommend a good tranny
shop, and these hints to help him stay out of the "Oh, Sh-t"
situation. The whole job of R&R can be done in one day, if you've got all the
parts and tools. You didn't specify why you are removing the tranny, but if
it's to rebuild the thing, you better consider that you may be tying up a
lift, or transmission jack rental a few days until you're ready to reinstall.
Not a great idea. Better to have the new, or rebuilt parts before you start
(including a rear motor mount).
Oh, yes. One last little piece of information. If you have headers, forget
these simple instructions, they get in the way and must be removed
first.
Have fun.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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