Jim,
Maybe I ought to publish "The Book of Steve", and sell it for $80 {9->.
If you are using the "repro" from Sunbeam Specialties, it has "flaps" around the
bottom and top rubber that are supposed to lie flat against the edges, and
encase the window to seal as it closes, as well as having a vertical wall of
rubber where the side of the frame seals, that fits on the
vertical edges of the window opening. I hope that is a clear description, and
this is the seal you have.
It is very well made, with lots of fine detail in slots, slits, flaps, etc.
Trouble is, you can't get the D-mned thing to sit in the correct position
long enough to bolt in the window to keep it in place. No matter what Rick
says, it can't be done with less than 12 midgets with tiny fingers.
First problem. It doesn't fit. Well molded, but the "top" runner is too long,
and you just cant get it to fit the upper window opening edge
without buckling. The cure took a lot of guts. Take out a razor blade and cut
about 1/8 to 1/3 inch off the piece by slicing it thru in the rear
corner, then shortening the upper piece till the whole thing fits without
buckling. Don't worry about the "flaps" at this point, just make sure the major
slot fits all the way around into the steel without buckling.
Second problem. It won't stay in place long enough to set the window in,
because the "flaps" are molded straight, instead of "pre-bent".
Before we continue, make sure you've got all the little screws that hold on the
window, the closing levers, and the window is fully
assembled. The screw threads in the plate that holds the "flip-open" handle are
NOT threaded all the way through. I do not recommend
tapping them, as if you break the tap, your in deep trouble. Get the right
length screw. It's a 6-32, but very short. I bought some stainless
ones at a boat store and "cut" them to the correct (nonbinding) length. A wire
crimping tool has thread cutters that I have used all the way
upon to the 10-32's (very difficult), the 6's are easy. A little jewelers file
dressing on the tip isn't a bad idea.
Tools: You are going to need an awl to lineup the screw holes to help you align
all those parts. Make sure you have the door window
vertical seal aluminum piece and new rubber, as well as the toggle clamp and
button assembled and bolted to the window. I used a pan head
slotted short screw, and two pieces of Buna-N 1/16 rubber washers. A thin
screwdriver can get by the post to tighten the screw. The screw
won't fit if it's too long. Tighten it now, it will be your last easy engle.
Materials: That black quick setting rubber cement in a tube used by your
upholstery shop.
Wash the rubber in liquid soap and sponge or slightly rough plastic wool to get
that wax off. There is a Professional "Release Agent" that
works much better, and is used by glass installers to clean up after installing
windshields. They need the wax inside to allow the glass and
metal to slip properly, and clean up excess latter. It is called Essex Release
Agent RA 100 GSF, or Essex"ARG". Made by Essex Specialty
Products, Dayton OH. Should be about $4.50 a spray can.
Apply black rubber trim glue only in center groove of rubber. Allow a few
minutes to get tacky. Some blue "light stick" masking tape on
your paint may save you some grief. Carefully (with extra hands, if you can)
place the main groove on the metal window frame edges,
holding it in place as you go. While holding it in place, carefully fit the
entire window assembly into the window, and screw it in place. Use the awl to
line up the forward holes. BTW: There are four holes in the window, but only
three are tapped and used on mine. If the
aluminum side window seal holder does not fit, and the holes do not line up with
the window, it is either upside down, or on the wrong
side. Dry fit all this stuff first.
Close the window, while pushing down on the main seam, and extruding the edges
under the window. Keep window closed overnight. At
this point, I've got to warn you about that clamp. My brand new plexiglas, in
carefully fitted frames and rubber, with carefully installed
rubber seal, showed a slight bowing at the BIG aluminum button. This could
cause long term stress cracking, or break the plastic. If
possible, don't ever toggle the lock closed, and your window won't crack or
craze.
Now. that's probably more than you really want to know, but that's the way I did
it. Putting in the rear window, trim, and clamp, headliner, and side stainless
trim are another challenge to humanity I had to solve, but not in this Chapter
of the "Book of Steve".
Hope this helps, good luck.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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