Steve,
I think most if not all MK1As came with the 7" booster.
Dave
At 10:13 AM 12/16/97 +0000, Steve Laifman wrote:
>Steve,
>
>There are three Girling servos and about 4 Lockheed servos, plus aa
>American Midland-Ross servo that have bee put into Sunbeams. The Tiger
>MkI and MkIA , and Sunbeam had a Girling 5" booster. The Tiger II had a
>7" booster. The "Type B" 7" Girling unit could be bolted in-place on the
>Tiger, and maybe the Alpine, but the rebuild kits are unavailable for
>this good, but non-original booster. When the kit was available it
>could cost upwards of $3350. The Midland-Ross booster is said to be a
>good unit and was designed for 50's T-Birds. Re-built MkI/IA and MkII
>boosters are available from sources I could recommend, they are not
>cheap, but less than a MkIIB Girling kit.
>
>The Alpines mounted their unit on the forward part of the right fender,
>while the Tiger was mounted on a small bracket welded between the
>firewall and the fenderwell. LHD cars mounted it on the right side,
>while RHD was opposite. The MkII had a 7" booster diameter, while the
>MkI and IA had a 5" diameter unit. The five incher had a band around the
>can that was bracketed to a hole in the firewall (ever wonder what those
>holes with tubes inside were for?)
>
>Fitting a 7" booster on an early Tiger is a bit tight, and you can
>forget the stock firewall brace, as there is no room. Apparently the
>MkII mounting was slightly different. I need to look to be sure.
>
>The boost ratio on the 7" units was near 3:1, while the 5" units were
>near 2.3:1, so the pedal is harder on the smaller unit. The Lockheed
>unit is very different in looks and arrangement of mounts and line
>connections, but they can be installed, with proper care. Some dealers
>sell two bent brackets with their units for about $65 more. Not worth
>it, if your at all handy with some sheet metal. Sunbeam Specialties
>stocks this unit. British Victoria also has some kits, but I wouldn't
>buy anything from them, it's mostly poor quality.
>
>The plumbing goes like this:
>
>The line from the master cylinder runs alongside, and clamped to, the
>firewall. It terminates, with a loop, to the right side of the car (LHD)
>and connects to the hydraulic
>input line. The output line goes to that junction block you mentioned. A
>vacuum hose connects the vacuum fitting to the manifold. It's in the
>back of the Tiger and on the carb. balance tube on the Alpine. The
>Girling units have a banjo fitting and a built-in one-way valve to keep
>back-fires from the diaphragm, and to give a little reserve vacuum if
>the engine dies. The Lockheed unit uses an external valve in the vacuum
>hose. This is usually included with the "installation bracket kit", but
>can be purchased separately.
>
>Important: All these brake lines have "bubble" flares, not the same as
>American "doubled V" flares. Again, Sunbeam Specialties has new lines.
>Get a good tube bender.
>
>One of your biggest problems is the Alpine master cylinder on the Tiger
>brakes. The diameters are different, and a lot of foot force is needed.
>The correct units are available, brand new. I would get one of these
>first, and see if the brake pedal force isn't acceptable without a
>booster. Remember to try fast stops from higher speeds. If you do
>install the unit, I recommend the original Girling, as kits are still
>available at a high, but reasonable cost.
>
>CAT warehouse has a neat accessory that should be in the trunk of every
>power brake Tiger or Alpine. It is a flexible 10" (approx.) stainless
>braided brake line with "bubble flair" type steel ends. If your booster
>ever goes, or eats all your fluid, you can just disconnect the input and
>output lines and connect them together with this booster by-pass. The
>pedal forces are higher, but you can stop. About $10 to members.
>--
>Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
>B9472289 < one first love, and >
> < one first win, is all >
> < you get in this life. >
>
>
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