At 12:03 AM 8/2/97 -0400, Chris S. Mottram wrote:
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>From: Chris S. Mottram@ECCI on 08/02/97 12:03 AM
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>I can't get my left front turn signal to flash or light at all. The
>parking light comes on just fine so I assume the ground to the lamp unit is
>OK. When I use my volt meter to check for power I get about 2.5 volts
>constant with a rythmic pulse (the flash) of 5-6 volts. This is the same
>as what I get at the right front signal unit (that one works). Yes the
>bulb (1156) is OK. Bulbs work in the right, not in the left. The rear
>signals flash fine. Is this the right amount of power coming to the signal
>lights? My meter won't measure amps, could I be getting enough volts but
>not enough amps? What's the difference?
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>Thanks,
>Chris
>Series 5
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Chris,
I had a similar problem and might have a simple solution. If Scotty
mentioned this in his reply, allow me to appologize for being redundant at
the outset. Printed Scotty's reply and will read it off-line as it looked
interesting.
For my money, you are correct that your ground is OK becuase of your
parking marker lights operate normally. My bet is that one of the
"in-line" (or, "butt") connectors is corroded, leading to resistance
accross the cable. This probably the reason for the low rather than
non-existant voltage.
The first place to look is at the wiring harness as it traces up the inside
of the fender well in the engine compartment. Look for the "butt"
connectors that join the wires together about the middle of the fender
well. Take these apart one at a time and examine the bullet-ends connected
to each side for corrosion. Clean as necessary. Chances are they will
look fine (as did mine). The "butt" connector is a different
story....black rubber coated and about 1.5 inches long, you will not really
be able to examine it for corrosion, and it will be tough to clean, but it
can be done. Replace the butt-connector with a test lead and try your turn
signal again (correct wire identification will be in your wiring harness
diagram in the manual). Obviously, as this lead is "hot" you will want to
well insulate your test jumper from the body of the car during testing. If
it is indeed the "butt" connector (I know guys & gals, improper
nomenclature!) it is really better to replace it with a new one than try
and clean the old one or permanently join the leads together. If not at
this location, continue to trace down the lead to the next similar
connector which (if mamory serves me correct) will either be near the
fire-wall or in the cockpit. <8-)
Will be interested to know if this works for you Chris. Please excuse me
if I have been overly simplistic....just a PP of consistently
over-explaining things!!
Regards,
Allan
B9472373
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