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RE:Original Tigers & Dash boards

To: "anitabrt@mindspring.com" <anitabrt@mindspring.com>,
Subject: RE:Original Tigers & Dash boards
From: "Kempinski, Robert M." <RKEMPINS@SSF4.jsc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:15:00 -0600
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REPLY FROM: Kempinski, Robert M.
Microsoft Mail v3.0 (MAPI 1.0 Transport) IPM.Microsoft Mail.Note
From: Anita Barrett
To:  tigers@autox.team.net
Subject:  Original Tigers & Dash boards
---
Hey Jim,

Enjoyed reading your tale about your Tiger and admire your
resourcefulness.
I'm not a slave to originality, but I am a woodworker, and your comment 

>problem.  After regluing the 12 plys of wood back together, I glued on
>burl formica.  It looked just like the original berl elm.  

made me shudder. While the manufacturers of formica may think so,
formica 
painted to look like burl, doesn't look anything like the real thing to 
me.   It's like saying particle board furniture is as good as solid
wood. 

>It was about $30 for a 4x8 sheet.  
I wonder about this. I reveneered my dash board using a beautiful real
walnut burl veener for about $30 too, so the cost was about the same.
You probably went looking for one sheet to cover the dash - that's what 
drives up the cost. By scarfing joints, you can use smaller and much
more 
economical pieces of burl.

> I did give it a spray of clear 
>polyurathan several time to give it the "deep" look of the original.  It has 
>been on for 10 years and I have had noproblem.  
Polyurethane on real wood- uggh - another pet peeve of mine, but in this
application, I suppose its ok. I'm surprised the polyurethane has stayed
stuck to the formica.

>You Just glue it on with 
>contact glue ( no holes yet).  Then simply
>knock a hole in the center of each gauge hole and use a router with a ball
>bearing formica trimmer bit to trim it up. Works great.

Using real veneer follows a similar process. Mark Olsen's web page
contains a 
discussion about this.


Regards,

Rob Kempinski
Houston Texas



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