Rick & Roland; et. al.
-I haven't checked thoroughly, but does the TIGER Shop manual give the +/-
callouts on min./max. dimensions for inside master-cylinder and wheel-cylinder
I.D. to provide proper braking after rebuilding?
-I own a couple different sets of brake hones, is this the way to go on a TIGER
brake rebuild (clutch too) or is it simpler and easier to buy new master
cylinders(both are "weeping" a little bit now)?
-Is this the way to go on wheel cylinders too...just buy new? Has anyone gone
the rebuild route only to have to buy new shortly thereafter? Or is this the
exception....& rebuilds are the way to go?
-The cost of parts is not a determining factor right now...but if I have to
re-do everything again soon and buy new, my cost-savings on buying rebuild kits
right now is just a "sunk-cost" later I'd rather not make.
-Who/what is "better" quality for the $...SUNBEAM SPECIALTIES; CLASSIC SUNBEAM,
etc.? No offense to anyone...I'm just trying to do my homework.Does anybody
mix/match from either supplier? Please advise.
Phil LeBrun
I highly recommend bench bleeding of master and wheel/slave cylinders,
but it's probably less critical for the clutch. Since my clutch slave
is mounted up-side-down, I know there's still air in it, and it still
works surprisingly well. But pre-bleeding can't hurt.
Whenever I buy a new master or slave cylinder I save the little plastic
screw-in dust plugs that usually come with them for this very purpose.
Between the cars I own and my son's I have quite a collection now. Old
bleeder valves work pretty well too.
Roland
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