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After some poor experiences with replacement electro-mechanical flasher
cans I switched to a digital unit and it works great except if a flasher is
not working it doesn't let you know like the old units did when they wouldn't
flash.
In a message dated 08/07/2016 10:57:30 GMT Daylight Time,
spridgets@autox.team.net writes:
Here's some interesting observations with flasher units.
I recently had the flasher unit in my '69 Sprite fail. It occurred during
my trip back from MG2016 from Louisville to St. Louis. The lights all
worked, but were on continually when using the stalk turn signal. That's not
much of a problem, however flipping the stalk switch on and off to mimic a
flasher gets annoying!
Once I got back home, I ordered up a new, correct flasher unit (8-512,
square unit) from VB. I was surprised to find that it also did not flash the
lights - constant on when using the stalk switch. The old unit was revived
briefly by putting it back in the car and tapping the side of the metal
can. Works just like a broken fuel pump! Turns out the new square unit
would not flash, even after tapping, hitting, dropping on floor, etc. The new
units are only rated (as noted on the metal can) to 47W max. Two old style
tungsten lamps (original style 1156 bulbs; 27W each) would draw 54W at
13V. As expected the new square flasher got very hot while engaged in the
circuit. I don't see how these new units can possibly work unless you have
lower amperage lamps.
I switched to a generic flasher unit from Riley; a DOT 522 round can
flasher. It works great! Hope this saves someone on the list some time.
Happy 4th of July and may all your flashers work!
Bruce
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<DIV>After some poor experiences with replacement electro-mechanical flash=
er=20
cans I switched to a digital unit and it works great except if a flasher=
is not=20
working it doesn't let you know like the old units did when they wouldn't=
=20
flash.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 08/07/2016 10:57:30 GMT Daylight Time,=20
spridgets@autox.team.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
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<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Here's some interesting observations with flasher units.<BR>I recen=
tly=20
had the flasher unit in my '69 Sprite fail. It occurred during my trip=
back=20
from MG2016 from Louisville to St. Louis. The lights all worked,=
but=20
were on continually when using the stalk turn signal. That's not=
much of=20
a problem, however flipping the stalk switch on and off to mimic a flash=
er=20
gets annoying! <BR></DIV>Once I got back home, I ordered up a new,=
=20
correct flasher unit (8-512, square unit) from VB. I was surprised=
to=20
find that it also did not flash the lights - constant on when using the=
stalk=20
switch. The old unit was revived briefly by putting it back in the=
car=20
and tapping the side of the metal can. Works just like a broken fu=
el=20
pump! Turns out the new square unit would not flash, even after ta=
pping,=20
hitting, dropping on floor, etc. The new units are only rated (as=
noted=20
on the metal can) to 47W max. Two old style tungsten lamps (origin=
al=20
style 1156 bulbs; 27W each) would draw 54W at 13V. As expected the=
new=20
square flasher got very hot while engaged in the circuit. I don't=
see=20
how these new units can possibly work unless you have lower amperage=20
lamps. <BR></DIV>I switched to a generic flasher unit from Riley;=
a DOT=20
522 round can flasher. It works great! Hope this saves someo=
ne on=20
the list some time.<BR></DIV>Happy 4th of July and may all your flashers=
=20
work!<BR></DIV>Bruce<BR></DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></=
HTML>
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spridgets@autox.team.net
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