Did you resleeve in brass or stainless? Just curious..
Adjustment looks more complicated than it really is.
Adjust the pushrod length and the 1/4 -28 stop nut
such that you get the maximum stroke AND so that there is a minimum
1/32" free play movement of the pushrod before the piston moves when the pedal
is
depressed.
You must have a small amount of freeplay in the pedal before the piston moves
so that the piston can safely return to it's home position when the pedal is
released.
BTW, The original master had a piece of felt is the bottom of the pedal box
where the pedals go. This was to help keep brake fluid off the pedals should
the
master begin to leak, or if you spill brake fluid while filling the master.
It's bogus. Here is what I did. I got a small piece of 1/4 inch thick rubber
and I cut it
the width of the pedal box and about 1/2 inch high. I then bonded it with
silicone
to the bottom of the pedal box between the master and the area where the pedals
enter.
It forms a little dam that will totally prevent any fluid from getting onto the
pedals.
Make sure you get some good grease on those rebushed pedals pivots before you
re-assemble.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Faulkner" <frog.aye@gmail.com>
To: "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 11:22 PM
Subject: [Spridgets] MC setup
> Today I began reinstalling the MC. It has been out of the car since I sent
> it to Sierra last October, re-sleeved to 3/4". The hole in the clutch pedal
> was seriously elongated and the bushings were shot in both pedals. The
> pivot bolt was also thoroughly rusty and corroded. So all that got repaired
> or replaced. The pedal box is cleaned and repainted. Clevis pins replaced
> and short push rods. Now I realize (or is it remember?) there are at least
> two adjustments on the assembly: The length of the push rod (it screws in
> and out of the yoke) and the rest point of the pedal (1/4 x 28 bolt with
> jamb nuts.)
> Anybody out there got any hints for me on this?
> Hal
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