I'll check first thing when I get home...thanks all!
This was helpful too....
http://www.british-cars.net/mg-midget-sprite-technical-bbs/hs2-vacuum-advance-float-level-200905270014044989.htm
Jeff Van Dyke gets around!
________________________________
From: Chris King <cbking@alum.rpi.edu>
To: eap2140@yahoo.com
Cc: spritenut@comcast.net; Spridgets@autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, November 9, 2009 3:16:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Final details....
There should be a nipple on one of the carbs near the mounting flange to the
manifold. At least, that's the way it is on the rear carb (HS4) on my 1500. A
series should be similar.
-=Chris
Chris King
http://home.comcast.net/~kvcbk/
<-----Original Message----->
>From: Edward Perez [eap2140@yahoo.com]
>Sent: 11/9/2009 4:53:12 PM
>To: spritenut@comcast.net
>Cc: Spridgets@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Final details....
>
>OK, got the horn working! Getting the replacement flasher today, so hopefully
>have the directionals working tonite. That leaves the "missing at higher RPMs
>issue." When BillM was trying to set the timing on this, we could not find a
>vacuum source for the advance on the distributor. We cannot use the manifold
>vacuum because it is a constant source and it throws the timing off. Is there
>a
>location on the SUs or elsewhere that should be used for vacuum advance? Where
>is this "Normally" hooked up to?
>To: Edward Perez <eap2140@yahoo.com>
>Cc: Spridgets@autox.team.net
>Sent: Sat, November 7, 2009 6:53:16 PM
>Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Final details....
>
>Edward Perez wrote:
>> I'm so amp'd that I'm finally able to drive the Midget thanks to BillM,
>RickB and Rich Ball. I installed the new starter and she's ready to go. A few
>minor details that I would like to iron out.....
>> 1. Missing at 3500 RPM and above...power seems to die off when is should
>be kicking in (Kent 256 cam).
>>
>Timing or carbs too lean.
>> 2. No horn (I have to use my finger)
>>
>
>Fuse? Dead horn? Check the horn itself first, put 12 volts to it and see if it
>works.
>> 3. No directionals (but the hazards work)
>>
>At the hazard switch there are 2 solid green wires, they are connected inside
>the hazard switch, hook those 2 solid green wires together and by-pass the
>switch,
>see if the signals work now. Remember have the key on. If not, check/replace
>the
>flasher unit, it's NOT the one inside the console, that one is for the hazards,
>it's up under the dash behind the glove box.
>Or check/clean the contacts on the stalk switch.
>
>
>-- Frank Clarici
>Toms River, NJ
>My own Fleet of Sprites
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