Michael Rowe wrote:
> The car was running just fine, but the idle was a little low, so I began
>fussing with the carbs. Soon, it was not running at all. (Who said
>"carburetor" is a French word meaning, "do not touch?") I had to start all
>over again, and learned the following:
>
> 1. The front jet will not screw all the way to the top, the rear screws well
>above the top. The rear must be eyeballed the same amount below the top as
>the front.
>
>
The jets should both be flat with the inside base of the carb when the
adjuster nut is all the way up.
> 2. Twelve faces down is visibly different for front and rear. Again, I had
>to eyeball the difference, although I suppose I could measure it if I had a
>reasonably accurate measuring device. My cheap caliper is old and rusty.
>
>
Also make sure the needles are flush with the base of the pistons, the
needle shoulder that is.
> 3. There is gas standing in the rear jet; the front is dry. So there is a
>big difference in the floats. Should I be able to see gas standing in the jet?
>
>
Gas will stand in the jets, but not spill out into the carbs. The gas in
the jet is level with where ever the float is set.
It's just a gravity tube
Check that the float bowl is not off kilter, there is a locating peg on
the carb body, they are often snapped off.
Both floats should be tilted the same, wiggle them, if they move more
than about a 1/6 of an inch, the peg is broken.
They will move as they have a rubber block inside the mount but also a
metal peg.
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
My own Fleet of Sprites
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