Changing the tub is easy. Remove windshield, drill two rivets, lift vin
plate, slide donor car under vin plate, attatch plate with new rivets.
Remove vin plate from door jam, attatch matching vin plate. Drive to DMV
and register. There is a frame number on the left side under the hood, it
is usually so covered with grease that it will go un noticed. You can find
it and grind it off if you are worried about it. Prime and paint, or spray
over it with rubberized undercoating.
For a rust free tub, the desert area of California is prime. California
1976-1979 Midgets have to pass smog check on a rolling road test, and almost
all fail miserably. Once branded a "gross polluter" it is not unusual to
see them for sale for less than a grand. A quick trailer ride out of state,
add a weber carb, and they are as good as new.
Transfer your roll bar and steering wheel for memories.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Payne" <andrewpayne@intrex.net>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:30 AM
Subject: [Spridgets] Rusty Tub
> Wow!
>
>
>
> You guys are great. The general consensus seems to be to change the tub
> out
> with a cleaner one. I have leads on a few within two hours' drive, as
> well
> as several from list members a bit farther flung. The rust, while bad, is
> localized, with trunk, engine compartments, and subframes relatively
> untouched.
>
>
>
> I guess the next questions are about how you bring the two together. I
> will
> refer to a car as having a inner tub and outer shell. The outer shell
> seems
> a matter of matching panels and selecting the best ones. The inner tub of
> my car has all of the wiring, drivetrain, etc. Does one strip these out
> and
> put it in the "new" tub and reassemble? What years will work (not
> necessarily correct.) with '76 components? What are the title/VIN
> implications? Obviously, talk to DMV, but as a rule of thumb how do I
> insure that my car can keep the same VIN as often parts cars become so due
> to titles that are a wee bit murky?
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