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Re: [Spridgets] Winshield polishing Cerium oxide.

To: "Dean Hedin" <dlh2001@comcast.net>, "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Winshield polishing Cerium oxide.
From: dlancer7676@comcast.net
Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 13:12:53 +0000
I, too, would "amen" the Eastwood windshield polishing kit.   

I have been polishing out wiper marks on a replacement windshield that will 
replace a badly fogged windshield on my '79.  It has done a pretty good job of 
erasing all but the deepest marks made by the wipers.  I understand that 
Eastwood has recently offered a kit that is "heavier" that will polish out the 
deeper scratches (those that catch your fingernail as you scratch across them).

--David C.
WOULD A FLY WITHOUT WINGS BE CALLED A WALK?


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Dean Hedin" <dlh2001@comcast.net>
> If you ever wondered if the Cerium oxide polish kits that 
> Eastwood & Whitney sells is any good...
> 
> I would say "yes", but it took a little while to figure out the 
> best technique.
>   
> My case was two worn wiper "frosted" arcs on the driver's side.
> My good windshield cracked and this was my spare. 
> 
> The kit comes with a 3 inch felt pad and a jar of oxide powder.
> 
> The polishing takes time.  Probably took me a hour or so..  
> What I have found is that firm pressure and full speed of the drill 
> made things move along at a reasonable rate.
> 
> To do this means you must have the glass well supported. 
> I used a big piece of Styrofoam from a packing box and placed 
> this under the area I was working on.  It sort of crushed to the 
> shape of the glass.
> 
> I also found it helpful to used some tape on the opposite side of 
> the glass to mark off the area of concern.  Once the glass is 
> coated  with the slurry it's a little hard to tell where things are and
>  you don't want to waste time polishing areas that don't need it.
> 
> A squeegee is useful to help reclaim some of the slurry.  I think if I 
> were to do it again I would build up a clay dam around the area to 
> keep the slurry confined.
> 
> A plug powered drill is best.  You need the torque.  The pad will 
> want to orbit out of control, but if you bear your weight into it and 
> keep it perpendicular to the glass it will stabilize.  Once you get 
> good you will run the drill full speed.
> 
> Every so often you spray the area with water to keep the slurry wet.
> 
> Final Result: All the frosting is gone,  there are a few heavier scratches 
> that remain but they are hardly noticeable.  
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