Frank, Is there anyway to lock these in position once they are set? Before
you do anything permanent like tack welding them, make sure the car doesn't
pull due to the caster being way out. The car will pull to the side with
less positive caster. Sometimes you can see the side with a caster problem
by looking for set back. measure the distance from the tire to the sill and
compare side to side or measure from wheel center to wheel center on both
sides and compare wheel base. Get them as close as possible with the camber
near 0 digress. This should get you in the ballpark. Caster is not a tire
wearing angle so if you get it to the point that the car doesn't pull you
should be ok. Remember camber will effect tire wear and the car will pull to
the side with the most positive camber, so try you get them as even as you
can.
Alan
> Well after replacing each and every part one at a time from the shock
> down to the A arm including the spring, spring pan, king pin and fulcrum
> pin, trunnion, trunnion bolt, and steering arm. There was no difference
> in my camber problem.
> So the car is tweaked. Anybody have an unsmashed 67 body tub?
> I have made the problem go away with a set of offset trunnion bushings I
> had bought way back. The wheel is now plumb if not tilted in just a tad.
> But the last time I used these bushings was about 20 years ago in my
> yellow Sprite and every time I hit the brakes, the bushings would roll
> to the low point and knock the camber way off.
> So far I only went around the block but I did lock up the brakes, what a
> bitch when the seat isn't bolted in ;) they seem to be where I put them.
> I did powdercoat the inside of the trunnion to make it thicker to maybe
> help hold the bushing in one spot.
> I guess I'll see what happens.
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
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