At 04:26 AM 10/9/2007, BCAH@aol.com wrote:
>I was looking at a BI yesterday and noticed that the rear brake adjusting
>was done by turning a square peg on the inside of the backing
>plate. On my BI,
>I adjust the rear brakes by turning a slotted screw on the outside of the
>wheel. Is there any significance to this as to year? I put mine
>together from
>a pile of parts years ago. Also, is it true that there were only a few true
>wire wheel 1'4 elliptic BI from the factory? I am still trying to identify
>which axle I have,--is it a wire wheel version or a solid wheel
>one. I figure
>measuring the hand brake rods would tell the tale.From center of hole to
>center of hole. Anyone out there have any measurements? If the PO
>did just put
>wire wheel axles into a solid wheel car, the shaft is a little
>short. A fellow
>in the UK recommended pressing the shaft out from the splined knock
>off hub by
>1/'2 inch. I can not imagine how much force that would take. I'm putting a
>breathed on 1275 in it and do not want to be in the axle breaking
>business.Any
>thoughts out there. Maybe getting those high dollar racing solid wheel
>shafts and then maybe bolting on splined hub adapters? What is the collected
>wisdom? Thanks people,---Bob C in Kansas
======================
Bob, From your description of the brake adjuster, you should have
the "late 948" brakes. The wheel cylinder has two opposing pistons
and the adjustment is from the backside using the 2 wedgies. (The
Bugeye would have had a single piston sliding cylinder with
adjustment done through the brake drum and by turning the snail-cam
at the end of the cylinder.) I say late 948 because you must still
have all of the 1/4 elliptic stuff.
So, call the axle from a 61-64 Midget with wire wheels, and I think
you'll be fine.
Peter C.
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