OK,folks,
Bushwacker gets the cigar for closest to the answer.
(I know what wire wheel and differential clunks sound like from my previous
Midget. Ha!)
The thrust washer theory sounds like the answer. However, I got out the Dial
Indicator (ar!!, ar!!) and here's the last nine movement reading in thou:
12,6,7,8,12,14,12,12,9
Not very consistent but all within the Haynes "Crankshaft endfloat" of 6 to 14.
is this good enough or, because I did see the pulley move, do I need to replace
thrust washers?
My procedure, that I'm including for critique, rather than suggesting anybody
should follow it, was as follows:
1. Jam a 2x4 between clutch pedal and seat (pushing the clutch fully in and
pushing forward the crankshaft).
2. Taking an indicator reading.
3. Removing 2x4.
4. Prying a large screw driver between steering rack and crankshaft pulley
(pushing the crank back).
5. Taking an indicator reading.
6. Subtracting the readings to get the "endfloat".
Does that sound about right?
Regards,, Adrian
-----Original Message-----
>From: bushwacker4@zoomtown.com
>Sent: Oct 30, 2006 8:26 AM
>To: Adrian Jones <adrianjones747@earthlink.net>, Spridgets
><spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Clunk
>
>Well, I've got the back of the car (1500 Midget) up on jack stands trying to
>track the clunking noise.
>
>Adrian, check the tolerance at the crank. Sounds like your thrust washers are
>ready to fall out. Pry against the crank pulley pushing the crank to the rear
>of the car. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal as you watch the crank.
>If you can see it move (and you probably will) the washers need to be replaced.
>
>HTH,
>Kent
>1960 Bugeye
>1975 Midget - some day auto-x-er
>1973 TR-6 - no longer leaking gas into the trunk!
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