First off, I'd like to say thanks for all the quick answers.
Second off, I think it's pretty rude to just come off and start ranting at
someone who asks for a bit of help. Yes, I know the original-style pumps are
still available. But it's a savings of about $70. that I need for other things
if I buy a cube pump locally. I'd love to have a 100% original car but I can't
afford it right now.
Third, "chink-built" was offensive. Did you ever stop to think that there might
be Chinese people reading this?
Thanks again to all those who kindy offered their advice.
Matt Boatman
Bud Osbourne <abcoz@hky.com> wrote: BTW, that shaft that moves the diaphragm is
still available, new, from
Burlen Fuel Systems, through their authorized agents......in our case,
Moss Motors. However, the late 1275 Midgets used the same pump as the
MGB, but with different inlet and outlet fittings. So, for those of us
with late 1275s, we can order replacement parts and pumps through The
Roadster Factory, in Armagh (near Johnstown), PA.
Re: shaft corrosion. I'm sure that the degree of corrosion varies from
region to region, and individual car, depending on a variety of factors.
Dunno about the Land Rovers, but, the Spridgets vent the electrical end
of the pump into what should be a reasonably dry atmosphere (the boot).
So, while I've not disassembled a large number of SU pumps, over the
last 40 years, the ones I have opened up (with one exception, just to
satisfy my curiosity about pumps taken off parts cars) haven't looked
bad, at all.
I can't help but wonder, however, how many Spridgets are running around
with the vent hose disconnected, or damaged? I'm guessing it is not an
insignificant number.
I've got two SU pumps, removed from parts cars that had sat out in
fields for years. I'll be taking them apart, soon, to clean up and
rebuild as spares. I'll report my findings to the List.
Bud Osbourne
-----Original Message-----
From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday@btinternet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 8:55 AM
To: Bud Osbourne; 'Matthew Boatman'; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Universal Fuel Pump...
Agreed.
A problem with a 30 year old pump besides 30 years of points wear is the
amount of rust that has formed on the bar or rod that moves the
diaphragm.
This often causes the whole thing to seize up. If the points are OK but
you
still have a problem with slow or non movement, do the unthinkable, mark
the
location of the diaphragm in relation to the body then break the
diaphragm
seal and separate it from the bar and clean the rust away. Re-assembly
is
the reversal of dis-assembly, taking care that YOU MAKE SURE THE ROD IS
REPLACED AND FASTENED TO THE SAME LENGTH. (Sorry for shouting but it is
important.) I have never used any sealants on the diaphragms when
replacing
but I have always ensured they go back in the same position they were in
relation to the pump body.
I am aware this is heresy for a lot of people but is has meant many
elderly
(50 year old) Land Rovers (as opposed to 30 year old Spridgets!) have
retained their original (Lucas) equipment. The first pump I did this to
some 25 years ago is still working and hasn't been touched since. The
crumbling wiring is a different matter but I don't think Lord Lucas can
be
blamed for that even though you feel like it when trying to smoke him
out.
If the vehicle is otherwise modified or used other than on public roads
then
fine, use whatever bits you need to. The original pump was used on a
road
car not a single figure mileage car. (Smiles) Emptying the carbs and
spluttering at high revs is a little annoying! (Grrrrrr!)
Guy R Day
A-H Sprite Mk IV
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