Briefly:
- it was an Oselli built 1293 ( stage 1 ? ) dynoed at 112 hp
- I want it back! :)
The crank, lightened flywheel, and clutch 'were' balanced.
We're doing that again.
I bought race prepped conrods from APT for the rebuild.
It has an EN40B crank which is going to be -.010. :(
It had a ( is it ? ) 731 camshaft which is getting replaced with a Kent 276.
( and new bearings )
The externals ( except the Cooper S distributor ) are in use on a stock
engine that Chuck Gonzo Christ brought up to me. I would consider going
pointless, but would I have to change to neg ground? I have an attachment
to positive ground. :)
Stock? Streetable. The car was modified when I got it.
The tanking and stuff? I'm going to visit on Thurs. and I'll see what's up.
He's a race engine builder, and I expect that to be done right. He asked me
to buy all the plugs, so I assume . . .
I have a Maniflow header that I want to replace with a new one and have it
ceramicoated (sp ) as well as getting a Maniflow intake ( coated ). I have
the "runs like crap for a few seconds after waiting at a stoplight"
syndrome. Too much heat.
-----Original Message-----
Well...
everything important is in the book...so
that's that unless you have a specific question as to the value of any
particular
item YOU care to mention, considering I
don't know the state of tune you plan, etc.
However, I would suggest at least
having the rotating assembly balanced to at
least street spec for a much smoother engine, state of tune or application
notwithstanding.
The nitriding on the EN16T cranks is only
20 thou thick. So if the crank needs to be
turned, you might consider re-nitriding.
Make sure the block is hot tanked or otherwise thoroughly cleaned internally
(water passeges, etc. & plan on new cam
bearings accordingly).
While the engine is being done, see to the
condition of the externals....alt/gen, starter,
distributor, radiator, etc.
You gonna be running "stock"??
Cap'n Bob
'60 Frog (hibernating)
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