Gerard,
Damn good info regarding the clutch m/c! Joe mentioned the need for the
radiator shop to remove the can but not the possible corrosion issues.
Eyeballing down the bore, it looks pretty good. I'll call Joe and chat about
that issue. Let's face it, worst case scenerio is that I don't resleeve the
clutch m/c. I'm doing this more for longevity than necessity. It's such a pain
in the a** to pull the m/c,s from the pedal box.
Regarding the powder coating, every time I look at the Eastwood catalog I drool
but alas I don't have the room for an oven. I have a shop in Dixon do it for
me. Nice guy, good job, right price.
See you at Palo Alto??
Larry Pitts
gerard <pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com> wrote:
Larry,
If you are using the separate tandem MC and "tin can" style clutch
MC, do not have the clutch one media blasted. That "tin can" is
plated on the inside and will rust badly if you have the plating
removed. This was the one problem I had with mine when Joe did them.
He has to remove the can to sleeve the bore and then have it
re-soldered on. The acid bath the guy he contracts to do it nearly
ruined mine. Joe, being the great guy he is, had mine re-plated for
me. Sooo, I suspect he has a procedure for dealing with this
particular one after what we went though. You should call him and
discuss what he currently does with them. Also, because the clutch MC
is not subject to the condensation problems usually found on the
brake side, the bores are often in quite good condition and only need
a new kit. YMMV.
On the finish, I like to use Hammerite, but there is also a special
powder coating that is brake fluid resistant. Regular powdercoat is
more resistant to brake fluid than paint as well. Joe can have it
done for you (I think). You need to ask him about that too because it
might need to be done before he sleeves it. Are you doing your own
powdercoating?
Gerard
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