Was catching up on my reading and spotted this. Anyone whose done much Alfa,
or cycle, etc., repair is familiar with this potential problem, especially
alloy head warpage. Assuming the head(s) have been periodically re-torqued,
then loosening them in several stages using a criss cross pattern starting
from the ends shouldn't 'pop' them. If it does then a complete rebuild
including align boring/over boring/decking is required for best performance,
or just replace it if it's an option since it'll probably be cheaper.
I don't stay abreast of what's what in the vehicle industry anymore, but if
Honda and/or the J.A. Pan Co., Automotive Div., has embraced the Lexus
engineering/marketing philosophy of literally 'don't rebuild, replace', then
you can't even do the necessary machining since they're designed/built for
max efficiency/performance/profit and screw the long term maintenance
issues.
It's not a bad plan really if it will last 150-200kmi with minimal
maintenance, but something to be mindful of when used car shopping.
Me, I'm sticking with long life/low maintenance rotary power.
GM
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 7:57 AM
> Andrew...
>
> I couldn't believe it when I initially heard
> it either and was even skeptical when my
> mechanic educated me on the "all
> aluminum" modern Japanese engines,
> as well. It still doesn't "sound right"
> to me but I tend to think of engine blocks
> as really "strong, solid" pieces of metal
> in terms of 30+ years of "cast iron" exposure & experience.
>
> Then again, David Vizard does mention
> "bore flex" in some 1380+ Series A
> applications, so it's obvious what happens
> in this respect when the support structure
> gets a little thin. And Bill Perry of Rivergate will not use an early
> "thin
> flange" 1275 A series in his commercially
> available rebuilds.
>
>
>
>
> Cap'n. Bob (Ret'd)
> '60 Frog
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