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Re: painting advice wanted

To: Bill Hunt <Billh@aaai.com>
Subject: Re: painting advice wanted
Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 10:43:22 -0800
Cc: Glen Byrns <grbyrns@ucdavis.edu>, spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <6619C190251D4340BEB0CE92D72EEEC533BF@mailexch.aaai.com>
When I had my Bugeye tub dipped it was baked after the acid was neutralized.  It
was then delivered to the restoration shop for welding to clean metal for the
rust and dent repairs and to remove the old Bondo.  The metal was brought out as
far as possible and lead was used to finish the repairs. he tub was then dipped
again and a coat a seal primer was applied electrostaticly so the primer would 
be
pulled into every nook and cranny.  Any repair to be done to the metal now could
be sanded down and re-primed in that area.  This process cost $800. to have it
done twice.  To tell the truth, if I had it to do over again I would have it
blasted with walnut shells or plastic media.  Even with the baking and
neutralizing I still have a few small spots that the acid was not completely
removed with baking and neutralizing.  Red "stuff" is leaking from these spots
not one year after this process.  The restoration shop had asked me if I wanted
these areas sealed before painting, but I said no.  They were not sealed on the
car in 1960 and the sealer would look funny in these seams.  Besides, I would be
just sealing this corrosion in and it would rust from the inside out.  It is 
only
a couple of spots and overall it came out O.K. , but maybe there are other areas
under the paint I can't see.  This same restorer now uses a different dipper 
that
black oxide coats the shell after dipping so the surface rust does not start
during the metal repair process.  He can then prime it at his leisure.  I don't
think this still addresses the acid that the neutralizer and baking doesn't get
to though.
Mike MacLean-60 Sprite

Bill Hunt wrote:

> > Spray can primer, weeks of
> nightly sanding, re-primering until 'perfect'.<
> I hope that was metal etch primer in the spray can.
>
> >I've heard bad things about dipping, as the residual can be hard to get
> rid
> of and cause problems if not done well.  Besides, its expensive and I'm
> cheap.<
> I checked all this out for Herbytoy. I decided to go Glen's route. If
> acid dipped it needs to be rinsed well and then "baked" to dry it out.
> It is expensive, about $600 (NorCal pricing, YMMV) for the whole tub and
> all panels. Media blasting was $500 complete. Neither of these included
> a "coating".
>
> Herby
> 64 MKII Sprite (Herbytoy - patiently waiting)
> 62 MKII Sprite (the DPO driver)
> billh@aaai.com
> www.herbytoys.com



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