When I changed the switch on my Bugeye there was no problem at all. I posed the
same question to the list last year. Bob Kitterer was the one that told me to
just
change it and don't worry about bleeding the brakes. Just unscrewed the switch
and
replaced it and went on my merry way WITH brake lights. This worked this way
both
times I changed it. The first switch was a used one that was supposed to be a
good
one, but proved itself otherwise.
Mike MacLean Supercharged 60 Sprite
Geoff Branch wrote:
> God bless ya son. That's just what I wanted to hear. Whew!!!
>
> Do you think that there is any possibility that there is a little bubble of
>air
> behind the switch and that it just needs "burping"?
>
> Geoff Branch
> '74 Meejit "Yellow Peril"
> '72 Innocenti 1300 Mini
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike MacLean" <macleans@earthlink.net>
> To: "Peter C." <nosimport@mailbag.com>
> Cc: "Geoff Branch" <gjbranch@MEDIAONE.NET>; "Spridgets@Autox.Team.Net"
> <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, September 10, 2001 11:33 AM
> Subject: Re: brake hydraulic light switch
>
> > I have changed the hydraulic brake light switch twicw since restoring my
> Bugeye and
> > you DO NOT have to bleed the brakes when you change the brake light switch.
> A
> few
> > drops may come out out of the brass fitting, but just scew in the
>replacement
> and
> > try your brakes. I think you will find the pedal just as hard as before.
> > Mike MacLean Supercharged 60 Sprite
|