Yep, I found truing a spridget wire wheel to be much easier than
doing one for a bike. Maybe it has to do with having learned that
skill when young. However, in my case it's not worth it. To properly
R&R the set I currently have on the Sprite, I'd end up having to buy
about $400 of new spokes and nipples. An since I have the steel wheel
setup in the attic...
At 2:22 PM -0800 12/7/00, Glen Byrns wrote:
>Reading about the problems with wire wheels, I would offer these
>observations from the book
>"The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt, somewhat of an expert on spoked wheels.
>The ability of a wheel to support loads is dependent on proper tensioning of
>the spokes. The highest possible tension that does not deform the rim will
>produce the wheel that can bear the highest loads, and 'spoke windup'
>experienced when reaching the higher tensions must be relieved. The spoke
>threads should be dipped in a persistent lubricant prior to assembly ( I use
>moly grease). The spokes of a properly tensioned wheel will all produce the
>same note when struck or plucked with only very slight variation. Spokes
>will loosen only if the preload provided by the initial tensioning is
>overcome by sufficient loading to allow the spoke to reach a state of zero
>tension.
>
>
>
>I build my own road and mountain bike wheels by these rules and they last
>much longer than 'store bought' wheels. In fact, I haven't had a home-built
>one fail yet.
>
>Arguments or differing opinions may be addressed to Jobst Brandt by e-mail
>to the rec.bike.tech newsgroup.
>
>Regards,
>Glen Byrns
>'59 bugeye
>'59 Morris Traveller (Winifred)
>(four bicycles, road, track, mountain, and tandem, with damn good wheels)
_____________________________________________________________
Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
Assistant Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA
Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis
mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
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