Mike: In my old days I was less fussy.....the trip was still a go if
I could pump the brake pedal fast enough to get a little pressure for
a stop. Of course that was a Tr*****h.
----- Original Message -----
From Mike Maclean <macleans at earthlink.net>
To: <froggi@cdsnet.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: Grounded!
> The first test drive keeps getting further and further away. The
list of small
> jobs to finish to make the car roadworthy is still kinda long.
Funny though, I
> remember when I used to drive a Bugeye as my only transportation.
Back then I
> would drive it with all kinds of things NOT working on the car. As
long as it
> would go when I stepped on the gas and stop when I stepped on the
brake. Ah,
> the good old days.
> Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
>
> WFO Herb wrote:
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > Congratulations! You only have a few things to
change/replace/repair before
> > you and the car are road worthy. Not bad. Keep in mind all that
you have
> > done to get this far. Amazing isn't it. First test drive is very
close.
> >
> > Way to go!
> >
> > Herb
> >
> > Mike Maclean wrote:
> >
> > > Of the few days I get to work on my car to try to finish the
> > > restoration, today was a good one and it was a bad one. It
seems that
> > > the more I try to get the car finished, the longer the list of
things to
> > > do to finish it becomes. Today I spent the afternoon trying to
finish
> > > up the wiring under the dash. I finally got the turn signal
indicator
> > > light to work and now all the instruments are illuminated when
the dash
> > > lights are turned on. Still can't figure out why the high beam
> > > indicator light won't work. I'll get it though.
> > > More perplexing is my starter pull cable. I went to start
the car
> > > by truning the key and pulling the starter knob and it broke off
right
> > > where it goes into the connector on the starter
> > > spring loaded switch under the bonnet. When I went to look at
it under
> > > the hood, it was discolored and very hot to the touch! I guess
I was
> > > grounding through it. I don't see how. The engine is grounded
to the
> > > body with a strap connected to a bolt on the bell housing and
> > > frame of the car. The car would run fine after the cable was
removed.
> > > I had been float gharging the car from the negative terminal to
a head
> > > stud to keep the battery charged. Could this have completed a
circuit
> > > through the starter wiring somehow?
> > > I also tried to make the doors close properly by shimming
the catch
> > > on the "B" pillar and got the passenger door to operate
perfectly. Not
> > > so lucky with the driver's side. Shimmed properly and couldn't
get the
> > > door to stay closed. The mechanism mounted on the door would
not engage
> > > the catch on the "B" pillar. When I inspected both sides for a
> > > comparison, the pin that snaps over the door jamb catch, in the
driver's
> > > door did not protrude far enough into the hole to "catch" the
door jamb
> > > catch. Now I have to get a new door mechanism with the chrome
knob to
> > > get the driver's door to stay closed before I try to test drive
this
> > > car.
> > > The more work I do on this car the more work I make for
myself.
> > > Looking for the light at the end of the tunnel, being a railroad
> > > engineer, I'm afraid it's a traim.
> > > Mike MacLean-60 Sprite
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