Part II
... or having the pistons 'buttoned' with teflon? I'd do pins and skits.
WFO Herb
Charles Christ wrote:
> hmm piston slap. a real bummer! it did not go away when it heated up huh?
> there were a lot of older(lots older) cars that had piston slap when cold
> but upon heating up (causing piston to expand in bore) they quieted up and
> ran just fine.
>
> how badly scored are the bores or piston sides? inquiring
> minds.................(allen you can jump in here any time! lol!).
>
> chuck.
> i'm taking a garage break tonight! resting up for a big day tomorrow! lol.
> :)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
> To: Spridget List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 06, 2000 1:23 AM
> Subject: Piston to bore clearance
>
> > Next installment in the Sprite that sounds like a Diesel.
> > The mystery is solved, it was indeed excessive piston to bore clearance.
> > The manual suggests between .002" and .003". I have between .006" and
> > .007".
> > (Question: Is the figure in the shop manual the clearance you measure with
> a
> > feeler gauge, or is it a clearance that is all around the piston, so that
> I
> > would have to double it to compare to my finding?)
> >
> > I measured all 4 bores and they are all the same.
> > The bore diameter is the only thing I didn't measure when I assembled the
> > engine. At the time I didn't want to remove the rings from a piston in
> fear
> > of breaking them. I wish I had done this.
> >
> > I had taken my block and pistons to an LBC resto shop that then had their
> > regular machine shop do the work. I'll call the shop on Monday to see
> what
> > they say.
> >
> > Damn. I should have sent it all to APT...
> >
> > If I have to put it back together as is, would STP or Engine Restorer help
> > in any way?
> >
> > Thanks again to everyone who helped with their suggestions.
> > Ulix
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