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Re: More on the 1380 Diesel Sprite

To: Ulix Goettsch <ulix@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: More on the 1380 Diesel Sprite
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 14:00:13 -0700
Cc: Spridget List <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Organization: WFO Racing
References: <007f01c0363e$ebf8d780$617ca1d0@wlink.net>
2"-3" inside micrometer

Ulix Goettsch wrote:

> For any newcomers to the story, I built a 1380cc street motor for my Sprite
> that sounds somewhat like a Diesel since I first fired it up.  A knocking
> that doesn't sound like a rod knock, and isn't as severe either.  Once the
> engine is warm, I don't hear it with the top down.  With the hardtop on, I
> do hear it and it doesn't sound good.
>
> Piston slap due to too-large a bore has been suggested as a possible
> culprit.  I did not check the bore diameter before I assembled the engine
> because I did not have a tool accurate enough for this.
>
> Today I pulled the head off.  The bores look good, not scraping.
> I want to check the bore size.
>
> What tool should I use to check it, would good calipers be good enough?  Of
> course I could only measure right at the top.
>
> If this wasn't enough of a problem, I also found that the head gasket is
> blown between cylinders 2 and 3.
> I specified the block be offset bored, but Vizard says for 73.5mm, this
> isn't even necessary.  The head was milled, the block was not (I regret that
> now).  I used a copper headgasket from APT.  Some say that the Metro Turbo
> headgasket is superior.  Any opinions?
> I plan to measure the thickness of the wall between number 2 and 3, does
> anyone know what the minimum safe thickness is?
>
> If the bares are within spec, the pistons will come out and I'll check the
> wrist pins and bearings. :-(
>
> Ulix (wish I had just built a stock motor with a 266 cam...)


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