Paul,
I've been fighting all these same exact problems with my rebuilt 1275 for the
last 6-months. I tried using 'aftermaket' PCV valves with no success. The only
thing that seemed to improve the problem was going to an orginal 1275 PCV
valve,
which I picked up at a local swap meet (it works differently from the new
ones).
The stock PCV cut my oil leakage by more than 50% out the rear main. If you
have
blow-by coming out the valve-cover cap, there is definitly too much crankcase
pressure, I actully had 'negative' pressure in my crankcase, and I still had
some leaking after high speed cruising. Mine also had a tendency to overheat.
You didn't state what the condition of the head was, or 'compression' on the
engine, has it been rebuilt recently?
I just tore my engine down again while I had it pulled for a 5-speed
conversion,
and found that I had a groove in cylinder #2 that was causing excessive
blow-by,
and that the hone job I did when I rebuilt the engine was not allowing the
rings
to break-in properly. Also, it looked as if my head was not seating properly,
casuing a slight oil leak into cylinder # 2. I have now had the cylinders bored
20 over (new pistons and rings), had the head skimed, and checked, and the
block
deck checked for flatness. I also took a lot more time and care when
reassembling the rear main seal on the engine, and put a light 'smear' of
silicon sealer on the main seals to provide a better seal. I also installed the
Rivergate rear main seal kit.
I hope all this work will pay off, and eliminate the oil leak and overheating
problems. One thing for sure, it doesn't pay to take any short-cuts when
rebuilding these engines, you really get out only what you put into it.
Regards - Bryan Vandiver (59-bugeye)
San Jose, CA
>To: spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Subject: Needed: PCV Valve and other advice
>
>List,
>
>Would anyone like to sell me a complete, original PCV Valve unit for a
>1275?
>
>Does anyone have any experience with the PCV Valve that VB sells?
>
>My 1275 is suffering from a terrible oil leak and I am hoping that the
>correct size PCV will lessen the internal engine pressure. Currently I am
>running an after-market pcv between the intake manifold and the can on
>the timing chain cover. The valve cover has a vented cap and there is air
>flowing out of the vent - not in. Is this normal? It seems to me that this
>is
>an indication that there is too much internal pressure in the engine and I
>am also wondering if air is being forced out of the engine's rear seal -
>causing (worsening) my oil leak. This is where my leak is. BTW, new
>front and rear cork seals have been installed to the oil pan after new front
>and rear plastic seals were installed and failed to stop the leak.
>
>Like other List members, my engine is also running too hot - 190 to 205.
>Will a correct size pcv valve help this? The installation of a 10 row oil
>cooler has had no effect. I will try another thermostat when I get a pcv.
>
>I am thinking about a complete rework of my head as I am confident that
>this will solve my overheating problem. However, I am afraid that this will
>worsen my oil leak? Is this so?
>
>This whole project is getting me depressed as I seem to be pumping a
>whole lot of effort with minimal returns.
>
>Thanks,
>Paul
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>Paul A. Dolloff, Ph.D.
>Lexington, KY
>606/744-4812 ext. 389
>'66 A/H Sprite MK III: HAN8L-55641
>'66 A/H Sprite MK III: HAN8L-59017
>'69 A/H Sprite MK IV: Parts car
>--------------------------------------------------------------
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